“It Didn’t Follow the Rule of Thirds”

I remember sitting in a meeting around 2016 or 2017, looking at someone’s photo when another person said, “It didn’t follow the rule of thirds.”

I was put off by that statement.

Not because the rule of thirds is useless—it can absolutely be helpful—but because the comment dismissed the photo based on a guideline, without considering the image itself. No thought was given to why the photo worked (or didn’t), what the photographer was trying to communicate, or what made the image compelling—or not.

That moment stuck with me.

Since then, I’ve found myself moving away from rules of composition and toward questions. Questions help us dig deeper than surface-level analysis. They keep us curious.

Instead of checking a mental list of “rules,” I ask:

What makes this photo effective?

What emotion does it convey?

What draws your attention in the frame?

How might breaking a rule add to the image?

These questions encourage reflection, not just obedience. And that’s where real creative growth happens.

Rules can be tools. But when they become rigid, they limit more than they help.

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Would you like to add a visual example to go with it—maybe one of your own photos that breaks the rule but still works?

Don’t Just Give Settings—Ask Better Questions

Newer photographers often ask, “What settings should I use?” It’s a natural question, especially when they’re faced with unfamiliar situations or trying to improve quickly. And more often than not, an instructor or experienced photographer will respond with settings based on their own experience.

But I believe that short-circuits the learning process.

When we jump straight to handing out settings, we unintentionally rob learners of the opportunity to think through the situation for themselves. A more effective—and more lasting—approach is to ask thoughtful, guiding questions instead.

Questions like:

What are you photographing?

Why are you taking the photo?

What do you want the photo to emphasize?

What camera and lens are you using?

These questions help the photographer slow down and think. They prompt a deeper understanding of the creative and technical decisions behind every image.

Some of the answers may seem obvious—or assumed—by the instructor. But that’s the problem. Those assumptions can get in the way of helping someone truly understand their own process and gear.

By asking better questions, we help photographers connect the dots between their intent, their knowledge, and their tools. And that’s where real learning happens.

Newer photographers often ask, “What settings should I use?” It’s a natural question, especially when they’re faced with unfamiliar situations or trying to improve quickly. And more often than not, an instructor or experienced photographer will respond with settings based on their own experience.

But I believe that short-circuits the learning process.

When we jump straight to handing out settings, we unintentionally rob learners of the opportunity to think through the situation for themselves. A more effective—and more lasting—approach is to ask thoughtful, guiding questions instead.

Questions like:

What are you photographing?

Why are you taking the photo?

What do you want the photo to emphasize?

What camera and lens are you using?

These questions help the photographer slow down and think. They prompt a deeper understanding of the creative and technical decisions behind every image.

Some of the answers may seem obvious—or assumed—by the instructor. But that’s the problem. Those assumptions can get in the way of helping someone truly understand their own process and gear.

By asking better questions, we help photographers connect the dots between their intent, their knowledge, and their tools. And that’s where real learning happens.

True, But a Simplification?

In photography education, simplifications are everywhere.

“A wide aperture gives you shallow depth of field.”

“Raising ISO increases your camera’s sensitivity to light.”

“The digital sensor creates the image.”

All of those statements are technically true… but they’re also simplifications.

Simplifications are useful—they help beginners get started. But if we’re not careful, they become assumptions. And assumptions can prevent deeper understanding.

Personally, I like to dig deeper. I ask questions. I challenge simplifications. I tweak them, reframe them, and sometimes throw them out altogether.

For example, ISO doesn’t literally make your sensor more sensitive to light. It adjusts signal amplification and processing. And while a wide aperture can result in shallow depth of field, that’s only part of the story—focal length, subject distance, and sensor size also play a role.

You might call me a bit technical. That’s fair. But I’d rather teach photography as it really works, not just as we simplify it for convenience.

So I keep asking:

What does ISO actually do inside the camera?

Why does sensor size matter for depth of field?

What’s really happening when the shutter opens?

And I encourage others to ask too.

If you're curious, Canon has a great breakdown of how sensors work:

Image Sensors Explained – Canon

Simplifications are a starting point. But questions—they’re the path forward.

What Lens?

“What Lens Should I Use?” Isn’t the Right Question

I’m often asked, “What lens should I use?” But honestly, that’s not the question you should be asking.

If you're talking with a group who knows your gear and understands your why, then maybe it's a fair question. But even then, it's still too broad.

You need to ask something more specific:

Are you shooting with full-frame or not?

What are you trying to capture—artistic expression, journalism, wildlife, documentation?

What are your goals for the final image?

Even if you ask the right questions, who can remember all the possible combinations?

That’s why it’s more important to know your gear—really know it. Understand the tools in your photography toolbox and how each one behaves in different situations.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/15BbyNLdKOnVYUhXBUwDsH5zY5sg1FZOP/view?usp=sharing

Natural Light

I received an email from light stalking "Hi there!

 

Ever wondered why some photographers consistently produce stunning, magazine-worthy photos? 

 

It often comes down to one fundamental photography skill: mastering natural light.

 

Without this knowledge, even your best compositions can look flat, lifeless, or muddy. It's frustrating to line up what should be the perfect shot, only to find your subject looking dull or your colors muted.

 

The good news? "

Basically a sales pitch. But that got me thinking about my photography and what techniques and "drills" can I do?  So I asked chatGPT.

https://chatgpt.com/share/67d83e94-9a88-8009-90b9-7cdb9ad8a1ed

It mentioned exposure compensation but for RAW and without Auto ISO use a fixed ISO and only change one setting at a time. For example for a specific Aperture only change the shutter speed.

Also you may consider using the app Photopills on your cellphone to view sun and moon direction.

Memory requirements, Mac?

Always do your own research. 

I subscribe to several photography education sites. Sometimes they provide conflicting opinions. What is the real, IMHO, answer?

I am suspicious of AI but I use it to compare Q&A's.

Following are a comparison of a question submitted by Ask Tim Gray and the same question submitted to Gemini and chatGPT.

From Ask Tim Gray

"Today's Question

I need to purchase a new Apple computer. I don't understand unified memory and how much I need. I may run Photoshop, Lightroom, and Bridge, along with possibly Denoise AI and Helicon Focus at the same time.

Tim's Quick Answer:

Unified memory refers to a single pool of memory in a computer used for both the main processor and for the graphics processor. This means you should opt for more memory than you otherwise assume you need, because there is not separate memory for the graphics processor."

The same question was submitted to popular AI chat boxes.

 From Gemini "It's wise to consider memory needs carefully when purchasing an Apple computer with unified memory, as it's not upgradable later. Here's a breakdown of what you should consider, especially with your intended software usage:

Understanding Unified Memory

 * How it works:

   * Apple's unified memory architecture integrates the CPU, GPU, and other components, allowing them to access the same pool of high-bandwidth memory. This results in significant performance gains, especially for graphics-intensive tasks.

   * Unlike traditional RAM, unified memory is shared by all components, so it benefits both CPU and GPU performance.

 * Why it matters:

   * Because it's integrated, you must decide how much you need at the time of purchase.

   * Applications like Photoshop, Lightroom, Denoise AI, and Helicon Focus can be very memory-intensive, especially when working with large files.

Memory Recommendations for Your Workflow

Here's a general guideline based on your software usage:

 * 16GB:

   * This is the absolute minimum I would suggest. While it may handle individual tasks adequately, running all those applications simultaneously could lead to performance bottlenecks.

   * If your work is light, meaning small batch processing, and smaller image files, this may work.

 * 24GB or 32GB:

   * This is the sweet spot for professional photo editing. It will provide ample headroom for running multiple applications simultaneously and handling large files.

   * Given that you're using Denoise AI and Helicon Focus, which are known to be resource-intensive, 24GB or 32GB is highly recommended.

   * This will allow for smoother workflow, and less time waiting for software to process.

 * Why more is better:

   * Photo editing software, especially those using AI (like Denoise AI), benefit greatly from more memory.

   * Having extra memory allows your system to cache more data, reducing the need to access slower storage.

   * Future proofing your purchase. Software requirements generally increase over time.

Key Considerations

 * File Size: If you work with very large files (e.g., high-resolution RAW images), you'll need more memory.

 * Workflow: If you frequently multitask between these applications, prioritize more memory.

 * Future Needs: Consider how your needs might change in the future. It's better to have too much memory than too little.

In summary:

For your workflow, I strongly recommend aiming for 24GB or 32GB of unified memory. This will provide a smooth and efficient experience, allowing you to work without frustrating delays."

chatGPT 

"Unified memory on Apple computers is a shared pool of high-performance memory accessible by both the CPU and GPU, which improves speed and efficiency. For running Photoshop, Lightroom, Bridge, Denoise AI, and Helicon Focus simultaneously, I recommend at least 32 GB of unified memory to ensure smooth performance and multitasking. If you work with large files or do extensive editing and rendering, consider 64 GB for maximum efficiency.

Would you like help choosing a specific model or guidance on other specs?"

My choice? You can't go wrong with more RAM. But I'm a Windows PC user.

Your Camera doesn't See What You See

It should be no surprise that you camera image doesn't look like what your eyes see. 

Your lens focal length and distances between subject and background/foreground can drastically change what your eyes see. 

Often you read or hear that editing a photo is changing reality. What it reality? As Adam Savage said . 

Is your photo reality?  Your digital image is a collection of data that was interpreted of shades of gray of  the red, green and blue filters on your sensor. An A to D,  Analog to Digital, converter and complex algorithms create an image you can view.

Moon Replacement

Shoot the Moon

When you try to get a well exposured landscape you usually get a nice landscape you get a white dinner plate for a moon. How do you get a good moon, some features, and a great landscape? It's very if not impossible in a single shot. The one you see are most likely a composite.

This is one way,

This is another way,

And from Photopills I like this one better Outdoor Photography School

Yes this was done with an Olympus but most modern digital camera be able to use this double exposure technique. "The ability to create multiple exposures is certainly not new to photography and definitely not propriety to Olympus cameras. Most newer models of digital cameras have this setting and they all work in basically the same way. If you are looking for a way to add interest to your next shot of"

Ok, I just had to do a quick try at 0800.. 

Why use Auto Mode on your camera?

Where do I start for my settings?

It depends. What is your creative vision?  What is most important in your photo? What controls my artistic vision?

This video may be helpful. 

https://youtu.be/55Ru4DI8qSs?si=TOkmTfIy-9-zjW-R

What Interests you?

When one of my photographers friend has a problem or a question that prompts me to research it, test it with my camera, take a series of photos to demonstrate it.

Please use the comments to let any photography topic you would like me to cover.

Adobe cloud & ecosystem

Some are suspicious of anything with the word "cloud". Your email is in a cloud. Using the WWW, World Wide Web, is in a cloud. Facebook, Instagram and all social media is in a Cloud.

The Adobe Cloud is no different. Using Lightroom Classic sync is no different, as is Lightroom, mobile, Web. 

When you use Lightroom Classic sync your images are in the Adobe cloud. You can access, share and arrange them in Folders and Albums.

This video by Terry White should get you started https://youtu.be/kcO4Emc70KY?si=LXB4a-3OatMpega1

Histogram? Loss of data?

Histogram?

The histogram represents a tonal range of 256, 0-255, values. Spikes on the left or right indicates a loss of detail.

Our cameras use 10 to 14 bits per color. Each color has 1024 to 16384 values of tonal range.

My question is how to change 1024 or 16384 to 256?

To get 1024 to "fit" 256 you group 4 shades to 1. 16384 to "fit" 256 you group 64 shades to 1.

It's like breaking a mile to quarter mile segments, yard, feet, inches, in...

Just like breaking down a mile into smaller units (quarters, yards, feet, inches), a histogram attempts to represent the vast range of color information (10-14 bits per color) into a much smaller number of levels (usually 256).

Mile: Represents the full range of color information captured by the sensor.

Quarter Mile: A larger division, still representing a significant portion of the overall distance.

Yard: A smaller division, providing more detail within the quarter mile.

Feet: Even smaller divisions, offering more precise measurements.

Inches: The smallest unit in this analogy, representing the limited number of levels (256) in the histogram.

This analogy highlights how the histogram, with its limited number of levels, simplifies the vast amount of color information captured by the sensor, potentially leading to a loss of fine detail.

Some time in 2019 I purchased my Nikon D5500. Later I bought 2 ebooks by Steve Perry, "Secrets To Exposure And Metering For Nikon"  which I quoted below 

"The Histogram Lies To RAW Shooters If you’re a RAW shooter - and you should be - there’s an important asterisk associated with all of the info we just covered. When you look at the image and histogram on the back of the camera you are NOT seeing the real RAW image – only an embedded JPEG created from the RAW file. (GASP!) Sometimes even if a histogram indicates blown highlights or solid blacks, there may still be some detail you can recover later with your RAW processing software (especially true for clipping on the left side). If you’re way under or over (highlights are especially problematic), feel free to assume the photo is going to see the inside of the virtual trash bin. Also, since the camera is generating the histogram from the embedded JPEG file, you have to consider what picture profile you’re using. A profile with more contrast will tend to show clipping before a profile with a flatter rendition, even with the same exposure. And of course RAW has more latitude than any embedded JPEG." 

AI vs EI and how they can work together

Ok Larry just what ie EI?

We know AI is Artificial Intelligence where powerful computer's and algorithms come up with responses.

Where as Experience Intelligent use your experience, knowledge and studies provide Intelligence.

At many times when I asked chatGPT or Gemini a question they provided an incomplete answer.

That's where Experience Intelligent can help AI. 

You need your EI to know that AI is not complete. Often times rephrasing your questions leads you to a better answer. Sometimes a response leads to a normal search that provides the answers or something you hadn't considered.

What's the point? Use both but don't forget your EI.