Lightroom catalog and related

During my discoveries of Lightroom I thought I'd try and collect several here.

Missing files/folders

 

Catalog

  - Multiple catalogs 

  - Ten top Misunderstandings 

  - Understanding the Lightroom Catalog.

  - What is a Lightroom Catalog 

Release 10.1

Rating workflow

Tips and Techniques from Olympus

These links are from an email I received from Olympus. Many are not specific to Olympus cameras. The camera does not make the photo you do.

Christmas lights

Holiday Themed Pets

Meteor Shower

As long as it works

Most photographers don't care how it works as long as it does. But an understanding of a digital camera and it's sensor helps us understanding the strengths and limitations. It will provide understanding of the RAW vs. JPEG argument.

Sensor

Why Exposure Compensation in Manual?

For a few months I have been shooting in M, Manual, usually action, birds. I want to control the DOF and freeze motion. Since the light may be changing I use auto ISO.

So I've wondered what's the use of my exposure compensation, (+/- ) button. So i assigned it to do another function.

Wow, a wrong choice. I follow Robin Wong to learn things about my Oly. Spoiler, basically I now use exposure compensation when in manual made with auto ISO. View this video to know why, 

I'm new to (fill in the blank) I just ...

It's not mine to reason ...

(Ours not to reason why, ours but to do and die.

Alfred Lord Tennyson)

But why we, well some, get some shiny item then purchase accessories that they don't know to use or fit.

For example, "Hi, I’m fairly new to photography and have an Olympus E-M10 Mark II camera, I just purchased a secondhand lens ..." That doesn't work likely the wrong mount.

The message is understand your equipment before you accessory. For cameras learn its capabilities and photography. Better photos is not paved by gear. Learn the craft then you will learn the gear you can actually use or need.

Susan Molnar Christmas card.

I met Susan Molnar a few years ago. Well we've never met face to face we are both members of Laura Shoe's help group on Facebook.

Susan is a photographer and artist in Sarasota Florida and I asked her permission to share this wonderful Christmas card she created.

  Thanks Susan.

Here's the back story on the photo "Every year, I go through the year's photos looking for inspiration for making a custom Christmas card.  For this year's Christmas card, I used a photo I took from my balcony of a Supermoon setting over the Gulf of Mexico early one morning.  In Photoshop, I used a sky replacement for the starry sky, added a Sun Star Overlay at the top, added the manger scene clipart over the moon, and added the Christmas Bible verse text.  I made several versions; one with our personal greetings at the bottom, one with my business greeting at the bottom, one with the Bible verse only (shown here), and one with no verse.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year (and hopefully a much better New Year) to Laura and all the other fantastic photographers and artists contributing to this FB page!  You have all made 2021 a much better year by sharing your creativity and knowledge!

Click on the photo to enlarge it so you can read the text."

Shoot the Moon

When you try to get a well exposured landscape you usually get a nice landscape you a white dinner plate for a moon. How do you get a good moon, some features, and a great landscape? It's very if not impossible in a single shot. The one you see are most likely a composite.

This is one way,

This is another way,

And from Photopills I like this one better Outdoor Photography School

Yes this was done with an Olympus but most modern digital camera be able to use this double exposure technique. "The ability to create multiple exposures is certainly not new to photography and definitely not propriety to Olympus cameras. Most newer models of digital cameras have this setting and they all work in basically the same way. If you are looking for a way to add interest to your next shot of"

Ok, I just had to to a quick try at 0800.. 

Using Lightroom presets one, well 3 ways.

 In our Photoclub, local private group, meeting today we discussed creating LR Presets and using them. There was a discussion on why and how to use and this link is a follow-up .

Enjoy and remember presets are a starting point and not the final result.

Why Worry? It's the Ratio that's why!

Why Worry about your cameras aspect ratio? In my digital darkroom I can crop to any desired ratio. Why Worry?

Composure!

It looks good on my device doesn't it. Yes it does but it may not print, on your chosen media, what you expected.

It's all about the aspect ratio. My camera sensor has a 4:3 ratio. Yours may be 3:2. The most common printing size is 8x10, 4:5 which didn't fit either.

So why Worry? Because when you compose your image and don't allow for the chosen crop the print may be too close to the frame. So worry about it.

Most modern cameras allow you to choose a ratio. In my Olympus camera I can choose a 1:1. When I review it on the cameras LCD display I see a light white 1:1 frame so I know my print wouldn't chop off important parts.

I use the RAW image so the sensor image is the native ratio not a jpeg crop display.

 Just another reason to use RAW.

This is a good discussion.

I have added this from my facebook Larry's Photography group, 

Camera aspect ratio and your desired print ratio should be considered in your composition. These articles may help.

https://expertphotography.com/aspect-ratio-photography/

https://www.google.com/amp/s/photographylife.com/aspect-ratio/amp

Lightroom Print

I had used Photoshop to create a photo with frame and text for publishing photos to instagram and FB. It was more time consuming. 

Working on another project my friend Randy suggesting using the Print module to do that project. During that project I began to think about my Photoshop frame and text. Easy least. My choice, not as elegant using Photoshop allows me to leverage the Lightroom Library metadata.

My result makes use of the Title, Caption and other metadata. Instructions to create your Template

Following is an example of a photo.

Since I haven't figured out how to, yet, add a link to the template make a comment in this post and include your email and say you want the template.

I Learned Something New Today

It seems like I learn something each day I use my camera. Usually I use Mannual mode but today I decided to try Aperture priority mode. I was doing a shoot during an outdoor tent covered event starting slightly before golden hour to just before blue hour. Challenging lighting conditions.

I thought flash might be useful in back light situations. So I attached the flash and ass-u-med it was working. It wasn't but I didn't take time to figure it out. Well I found that flash will not fire when using electronic shutter. Lesson 1.

When using Manual mode the front dial adjusts Aperture and the rear  dial adjusts the shutter speed. However when using Aperture or Shutter priority the front dial adjusts exposure compensation while the rear dial adjust the Aperture or Shutter speed respectfully. Lesson 2 I don't need to press the stupid exposure comp button.

Save Your Camera Settings

I have an OM-D E-M5 iii camera and it doesn't support using Olympus workspace to save settings that you can reload following a firmware update.

To at that end I created a spread sheet to c capture my settings. This is Google sheets format.

Exposure Compensation

Why? I've decided to use manual mode. Many will say that the go to setting is to use Aperture mode. Ok seemingly a good idea but you give up control of shutter speed. This may result in motion blur. Maybe for artistic reasons you want motion blur but not as a side effect. 

Ok use Shutter speed but give up depth of field. Why do you want that side effect? A Nikon eBook    says "Although it is possible to use the exposure compensation feature in the manual mode, it is more practical to use it with the P, S, or A modes because the camera will make the exposure adjustment automatically. In the manual mode, it is much easier to simply shift the aperture or shutter speed by the desired amount directly if you wish to deviate from the metered exposure."

Yes exposure composition may help but I ask why? Use Manual mode and do exposure composition by changing Shutter speed or Aperture. My camera is set so that 1 click is the Shutter speed or Aperture dials is a 1/3 stop change of exposure. 3 clicks = 1 stop.

Google Photos

Several years ago at an FMCA rally at Syracuse I was introduced to Google Photos. Prior to that I had used Picasa, a Google program. I was disappointed when Google removed it. 

Now I use it on my phone and me wife in her phone and iPad. It is useful in editing, organization, search and creating albums.

You may find this youtube channel useful, 

Information detail

Watch What You Read UP-DATE

Yes I have a new M43 camera. So I that that I would look for some Why M43 camera. I didn't get far. The first, and maybe my last, article didn't show a published date in the header. Ok not a big deal I thought. Wrong. The author started to give the usually favorable comments, weight, 2x crop, ... Then the negatives., Lack of lens line up, slow auto focus, low light ability, noise, ...

But wait, there are a lot of lenses, not as many as Nikon, Cannon, Tamron, Sigma to be sure. Low light ability to be sure, noise ok I'll give you that.

I stopped reading because I don't see many of the shortcomings in my OM-D E-M5 iii, and he started discussing Olympus OM-D. I skipped to the end to see if his review had a date. He didn't, the comments were closed and the last comment was 2013. 

Seven years is a long time in camera years. Most, maybe all previously shortcomings have been eliminated except ISO performance and bokeh. But do you really need that?

So when you look at a review make sure it is current.

Bard, Google AI, doesn't always get it correct but in this case I think it is. I've seen FB posts that are dated regarding photography. Bard said https://g.co/bard/share/d37365bc868a

Eye Glasses Photo Glare

In viewing some Photoshop/Lightroom/Photography Facebook groups or pages in seen several "... How do I fix ..." posts. This causes me wonder, why didn't you fix it when you took the image. Yes we all make mistakes in composition, exposure and similar.

Some things are difficult or time consuming to correct in post. Les, Randy and others have said something like, "you are responsible to all that's in the frame".

Basically we need to slow down when we compose our scene. Look for unwanted reflection's, glare, litter, signs, weird, etc.

Ok Larry what brings this on? Glasses glare/reflection's in a post where the question was how do I fix it in PS?

To me the real question is, how do I eliminate glare/reflection's. Of course Google has answers. Here's on, https://www.colesclassroom.com/3-easy-tips-avoid-glasses-glare-photos/ and this for fixing Transitions shading, https://www.colesclassroom.com/how-to-edit-transition-lenses-lightroom/

Olympus Bracketing

I have an OM-D E-M5 iii and was playing with Bracketing, menu, camera 2, Bracketing. There are several choices and I tried. ART BKT. Turning that option allows you to choose the ART filter to apply when you take a shot.

This results in a raw, SF jpg, and each ART choice jpg image.

That's a cool thing.

Olympus OM-D in camera processing

I just learned a feature in my OM-D cameras. Well not so amazing really. Since all sensors record a raw data file. But new to me is I took an image, M/auto ISO, and then processed in camera a JPEG using an art filter. Kind-a-cool. No need to change the mode dial. Just select the RAW image and apply the settings. I chose the are filter but I could have selected to adjust, wb, exp, shadow, bright, ...

Then upload to my phone and get 

Only Show Your Best

In a group I'm in we're often reminded by Randy, the group leader, "... only show your best ...". To often many more images than necessary. I too fall into that trap. But several images showing the same scene with slight changes in position is boring.

I stop viewing whenever I see that a person has posted 30 or so images. What's the point? When I go to shoot wildlife, action our similar, I may take offer 300 images. "Film" is cheap. Just a few a worthy of showing. That said when I shoot a sporting event I'll try and get a better than good image of each participant.

I recently read in Photography Life

"Be Diligent about Which Photos You Display

Let’s say that you made 1000 smoothies, and you only ever let people taste the ten best. They’d think that every smoothie you make is amazing.

In landscape photography, the same thing holds true. Even Ansel Adams said that one successful photo a month is a good crop. So, don’t feel pressured into showing as many photos as possible. Instead, put a lot of care into the work you display. A couple of bad photos can drag down the quality of an amazing portfolio."

Get It Right

I subscribe to Light Stalking and this came into my inbox and thought I should share it; 

"Hello there!

Get it right in camera.

If you have been around a while, you will hear this little piece of photography canon.

And it’s right. 

You should absolutely do everything in your camera to get as close to the end result as you possibly can while you have the camera in your hands.

But here’s where things go a little wobbly.

Invariably in these conversations about getting it right in camera, “that guy” will wade in with the gem that “I don’t need to do post processing because I get it right in camera.”

**sigh**

Sorry, but you do need to do post-production and you absolutely do not “get it right” in camera in 99% of cases (especially if you’re photographing complex exposure scenes like landscapes or dynamic scenes like sport or wildlife).

Nobody does. Sure, you can snag the occasional unicorn, but it’s very rare. It’s probably more possible in scenarios where you control everything (studios), but it’s still rare.

And in any case, “not doing post” is simply leaving it up to your camera to do the post for you. The very act of transforming a raw file to jpg ***IS*** post production.

Do it yourself, or leave it to the German/Japanese engineers to choose your settings, but it IS post production one way or the other.

Ansel Adams did post processing and even wrote a book on it. James Natchwey spends days in the darkroom for his famous shots. Steve McCurry famously got caught out doing a little too much post production and telling fibs about it (don’t do that). 

So “that guy” who claims everything they shoot is “right in camera” is better than those photographers?

Sorry, I don’t think so.

And in ALL of the cases I have checked out (because I usually look for their portfolio when they make the claim), literally 100% of them could have been improved with some skilful post—production. Some of them by a lot.

Here is a fact.

Good photography requires good shoot skills AND good post-production.

You should be trying to master them both because both require a lot of skill.

Get it right in camera. Then get it right in post too.

If you need a start, take a look at Steve Arnold’s very popular Photoshop 101 course for photographers here. (The video on this page is worth a watch, regardless).

Cheers,

Rob
 

608 Harris St
Ultimo NSW 2007
AUSTRALIA

Unsubscribe | Change Subscriber Options

"

Lightroom Shortcuts

Thought some may like this, https://www.phototraces.com/lightroom-tutorials/lightroom-keyboard-shortcuts/

Don't Ask Me ...

Often I heard a photographer ask, "what settings should I use?"

How do I know,

  • what are you trying to accomplish?

  • what camera are you using?

  • what lens are you using, zoom, macro, prime?

  • any lens filter

  •.What camera mode, A, S, P, M, custom modes?

  • mirrorless

  • Bokeh, 

  • ???

You need to define your objective, composition, your camera capabilities, your capabilities.

So the settings? In that simple question that I can't answer.

What's your answer?

Read more from Robin Wong

And Jared Polin from where I have learned a lot.

Also you should review It's All About Stops

Auto ISO

This is my go to manual, ok semi auto, setting. But there are times that I choose a specific ISO as low as possible to meet the shooting situation.

Auto ISO

Additional information

   Auto ISO, 

   Backcountry Gallery

BUT if you want to take HDR or similar composite shots it's not for you.

Often it is recommend to use exposure compensation to make quick exposure changes. My choice is to use AUTO ISO. Oh but the grain the grain. Yeah? What of it? You're post processing your RAW data aren't you? Who will see your image? Phone, tablet, laptop screen.  That's a different post.

Post Processing good or bad?

Again it depends. If your a journalist photographer you shouldn't  materially modify the screen you photographed. That said many of the pictures you've seen of the civil war were dragged. The Life magazine the photo of a motorcyclist surrounded by beer bottles was likely stagged.

So even journalistic photographs have been "post (sic) processed". All that has really changed are the tools. Digital images and processing software.

So it's OK to replace a sky our other background, change the color of clothes, of vehicle, ... But just you can there are times to shouldn't. Only you the photographic artist can make the choice. Let your moral compass be your guide.

Fstoppers has an article.

Do you shoot wide open?

Like many things in photography, it depends. 

As in I've stated before when the question is, what settings do I use? It depends.

What photographic effect are you attempting to achieve? 

This article may help 

How I Cull, Choose, My Keepers

 I'm a user of Lightroom Classic so this discussion is based on my experience and choice on how I cull my photo shoots. There is not correct way but it is MY way.

• Import my images from my card

• During the import I make sure my destination is correct.
• I add appropriate Key Words.

• In Library mode Loupe view
• Enable the Navigator window
• Set CapsLK it you want to advance to the next image you make a solution.
• Use the P, pick flag, U, Unflag, X, Flag for seletion.
• In each image I am looking at, Focus, Composition, Exposure
• X anything out of focus.
• P or U if the composition can be fixed with a reasonable Crop.
• P or U if Exposure can be improved by about +-2 stops.
• U if it is a memory shot that I would not post.
• I will often use 1:1 to verify focus,
• Now I will remove, delete from storage, all X's
• Now I will go to Grid view and use the attribute  "tab" to view all the P, White flagged images.
• Go back thru the Picks and rate each using number ratings 1 to 4. 1 = I may edit, 4 = I will edit. 2 or 3 = Maybe.
• With the Picks add the 4 stared to sort the 4 stars. Birds in flight that are mostly heading to you with the eye in focus is a definite P4.
• Remove the CapsLK.  Now it's time to edit.
• With my Picks and 4's selected I go to the Development module.
• As I go thru the editing process I may demote the rating to a lower number, 3 or lower, or Un-flag or X to mark for deletion.
• When I am happy with the edited image I will promote it to 5.
• If I have to many P-5's I review again and demote, 4 or lower,.

• I've been attempting to just have 1 to 3 of a similar image, like a sunset, sunrise, moon, ... Why force the viewer to make a  choice from 10-20 good photos that are very similar?
• For example on a recent shoot I have several good/great images of a Great Blue Heron in flight. I choose the one that you could see the eye, extended wings, etc. in sharp focus and detail.

This one, 

Pixel Peeping and Image Qualify

Which camera, FF, crop sensor, M43, cell/tablet, which lens, what ISO, ...

To me, get the shot is most important. Yeah I read a lot and even understand some of it.

The net of a recent article is,

"A great camera can recover from situations that lesser cameras can’t, while a convenient camera that’s “good enough” can capture shots you would have missed. Pixel peeping is worthwhile, up to a point, but can rapidly become an expensive game with few winners. Finally, the answer is simple: make your clients happy, because a great image you can’t deliver, or that nobody else ever sees, has little value." 

Or, 

"Of course a good photo has to be well exposed and in focus; but among the many things we can learn from even a casual examination of the history of photography, is the fact that some of the greatest photographs ever recorded are hardly perfect according to any technical metric. If you can create a photo that boasts a pleasing (or intriguing) composition, is beautifully lit, features an interesting subject and evokes a particular thought or emotion in the viewer is, then you’ve done something worthwhile. And you don’t need to pixel peep to validate that — the people who see your photo will do it for you."

Or,

"Let’s face it

If we were to walk up close to a famous painting in a museum and study it pixel by pixel, you’d find irregularities in the brush strokes, problems with color and skewed lines. So why do we do it with photographs? Similar to paintings in a museum, photographs are meant to be viewed as a whole, and from a certain distance. Hence I have learned to never go beyond a 50 percent crop when judging the sharpness of photos on my monitor."

https://www.slrphotographyguide.com/pixel-peeping-why-you-shouldnt-do-it/

https://macprovideo.com/article/photoshop/pixel-peeping-why-you-should-care-about-image-quality

UPDATE: How large can you print on your MFT camera? I've often wondered how big. The answer 3 to 4 for wide. No I didn't try it. I watched this video. 

The big take away is if your photos are on the web resolution isn't that big a deal. That said extreme crop will rears it resolution head. 

Print to see where the rubber meta the road.

Whistling Ducks

 I just can't add much here.

Olympus Hi Res

 A Hi Res photo. Olympus creates a 60 meg raw file. What is this? "The camera captures multiple images by shifting the sensor and then combining these images into one large, high-resolution RAW (or JPG) file." The detail

Sunset at Sun-N-Fun Resort Sarasota FL

Photographers worry to much

Yes we and more importantly the pundents and "pro's" worry. They worry about ISO. We should but not that much. JPG vs RAW  but it doesn't really matter. We worry about sensor size, but should we? We worry about which camera or lens is better but should we? 

But really those worries really don't matter that much. Yes it's my opinion but it's the exposure, focus, framing the image. What's included but often what's not included is more important.

Get the exposure as correct you can in the image. It's the image that is what's important. And the distance the image will be viewed. 

Yes low ISO, lens, sensor size,  FF have their place but it's the focus, exposure, framing that make the image.

I have left out motion blur because that can be an artistic choice.

Note to self OI.share

Olympus OMD cameras, most if not all, have a shooting mode called "Pro-capture". In this mode when you use a half-press of the shutter release the camera begins to capture images. When you continue to a full press the pre recorded images are stored to the card as well the images taken while the shutter release is depressed.

You can configure the number of images in the half press as well the total images saved.

The OI.share app provides shutter release as well full remote camera control.  I found that when I have set the shutter release mode to Pro-capture the camera will as many images as I have set to the image limit number I have set.

Understanding the Lightroom Catalogue

I'm trying to make sure I understand the basic blocks of Lightroom as it relates to files on my computer, Catalog, Virtual copies and collections. See the following photo.

During the Import operation files are written to or added to the storage device, usually a drive. The LR Catalog adds entries that contain; image file location, meta data, image thumbnail, and other information need about the image file.  

During other operations in the various modules, eg. Library, Development, additional entries are made to the Catalog for the imported/registered file. 

When a photo is added to an Collection additional entries are made to the Catalog. 

When a Virtual created another entry is made to the Catalog. This new entry will contain any additional processing, Development, Libray, etc. but not change the previous  processing. If the virtual copy is added to a collection the catalog data for the virtual copy will have information about that collection.

At least that is what I understand.

    

This is the response from my post in Laur Shoe

This is the response to Laura Shoe, "

Laura Shoe That is correct, Larry. Good for you for working through it putting it in language/visuals that make sense to you - lessons you create yourself are lessons not forgotten!

"

Also the Lightroomqueen has an excellent explanation "What is a Lightroom catalog"

SOOC, Straight Out Of Camera

SOOC, Straight Out Of Camera, not really, "Today images are not really straight out of camera

The camera actually applies certain settings and filters to the image after it has been taken. Images are taken in a raw format and then whatever factory settings the camera company has decided will make the final output look better as a .jpg, those factory settings are applied. We often get photographers ask us why their raw files are not as bright as the jpg’s and it’s because of post processing inside the camera. These settings can be tweaked by the photographer and yes, you certainly can output a printable image straight out of camera, yet technically some processing has occurred." From https://www.slrphotographyguide.com/what-does-sooc-mean/ 

YMMV

Sunsets and Lightning

A few sunset shots and attempts to get Lightning but the strikes were over 40 miles away and just light the clouds but I like the effects. For the Lightning shots I used Olympus Live Composite.

Plan your Photo shoot

I use Photopills but I am still learning about all it's features.

For those who are interested in Photopills here is the link, https://www.photopills.com/#bonus

Here is a cheat sheet https://attachments.convertkitcdnn.com/128395/3cf81d51-4e3b-4c8f-81a2-59c454a72979/PhotoPills%20Cheat%20Sheet.pdf

User guide https://www.photopills.com/user-guide

Why I Stopped Worrying About Hi ISO Updated 9/9/2023

I had be accused of being to technical most just want to get a good photo. But a photo is a combination of both the technical and artistic. You don't get  a great photo by disregarding one or the other. 

So put on your big boy or girl pants and read the links below.

Yes, low ISO results in a better image. No argument with that.

But you, well me, want to get the shot. In focus, no unintentional blur. Get the shot! 

There are many post processing programs that can reduce "noise/grain ..." and they are improving.

In an Olympus FB post I wrote, "Larry Kurfis IMHO, regards to ISO, the print is the proof not the pixel peepers. Who looks at fine oil paintings with their nose on the painting? I agree low ISO is best but don't sweat it."

In a shot, composition, shutter speed, aperture are much more than high ISO.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Edit: some bit of a vindication

• not be afraid of high ISO
• Shooting at ISO 100 revisited! 

 

Camera Storage Media aka SD card

There could be some confusion. This may help.

SD card tips

Also wiki information

Photo club Zoom meeting

During today's Zoom we discussed Astrophotography, where is infinity on your lens, Hyperfocal, photopills among other items.

Why isn't the infinity stop really infinity? because for autofocus to work the detection needs to hunt for the focus point.. Therefor a lens must travel further than "infinity" and then return a little to find the focus.

Potopills can help determining the hypeerfocal distance. Also the guide ot 1/3 into the image is usually good.

This looooong, 2hr, video may be of interest to a few. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuMZG-SyDCU

Table of Contents: 00:00 Intro, 04:43 Gear, 15:23 Prep, 36:43 Calibration, 46:53 Capture, 01:02:36 Deep Sky Stacker, 01:14:13 Photoshop

Additionally; Usually you are given the 500 rule but it is a GUIDE not a rule. It's a good starting point but you need to take some test shots and make adjustments. More information https://astrobackyard.com/the-500-rule/

ASTROBACKYARD.COM

Why You Should Still Use the 500 Rule for Astrophotography

Photoing Birds

From Olympus

Olympus - photoing birds

I can't get a new mirrorless camera

Why not? I've invested in glass and newer cameras have different mount ...

Look as your "investment" as a sunk cost. I and perhaps you, enjoy photography as a hobby not as a money making craft.  So don't use the excuse that you have an investment to justify not enjoying your hobby.

You can't take it with you. Your children won't want your full frame or aps-c camera or your f/4.0 600mm lens. They'll sell it for pennies.

Just do it!!!;

One of the advantages if mirrorless is better optics design view here. If you're going to mirrorless get me glass.

Photoshop New Object Selection Tool

The latest release of Photoshop included a new Object Selection tool. This video from PHLEARN shows us how to use it.

Soft Backgrounds

This is from Backcountry Gallery with tips to get a smooth background.

Backcountry Gallery Smooth Backgrounds

Manual Mode and RAW is Simple, IMHO

In My Opinion using Manual Mode is a simpler mode rather than Aperture priority or Shutter Speed mode.

Why do I say that? Well first use the RAW file format and do your own Digital Darkroom Work. If you use the JPG file format you are relying on the camera manufacturer to make all decision on your image. Using JPG you have to consider;

• White Balance
• Active D lighting
• Metering setting
• Color Space
• Live View vs View finder unless you have EFV.
• And other settings

Using RAW and Manual you need to consider;

• Aperture setting 
• What depth of field so you need
• Shutter Speed
• Do you want to stop motion
• Have motion blur
• etc.
• ISO
• What ISO provides the exposure you want considering the A and S
• Use Auto ISO, I do.
• Yes you need to consider noise but
• Most noise can be removed in your editing or a "plugin"
• Unless you are printing LARGE don't worry about it.
• I have printed 8x10 images that have ISO as high 8000

Using RAW and Manual allows your to consider composition and effect. BUT don't be stupid. You can only push your post processing, Digital Dark Room, so far. 

The JPG settings above only affect what you see on your cameras display. Also some editing use those settings to render your screen. Using your Digital Dark Room allow you to get the photo you want

SO;

In My Opinion 

Use Manual Mode

Use RAW file format

Remember all JPG images have been Post Processed somewhere 

Which Camera Settings Affect RAW Photos? 

The conclusions are; 

"

12) Conclusion

So, how do all these settings stack up? Here’s the final tally:

Affects the RAW data directly:

• Focusing and lens-related settings
• Shutter speed and aperture
• ISO (with a few caveats)
• Long exposure noise reduction
• Image area

Directly affects your camera’s meter reading, but does not directly impact the RAW data:

• Viewfinder versus live view shooting
• Active D-Lighting

Affects the preview on your LCD screen and the in-camera histogram, but does not directly impact the meter reading or RAW data:

• Picture Control settings
• High ISO noise reduction
• White balance
• AdobeRGB versus sRGB"

 

"I asked Bard, How does Lightroom classic use RAW data camera settings

And the replies are

Lightroom Classic uses RAW data camera settings to automatically process your raw images when you import them. These settings include the color profile, white balance, and exposure. You can choose to use the Adobe default settings, the camera settings, or a custom preset.

* **Adobe Default:** This option applies Adobe's standard settings to your raw images. These settings are designed to give you a good starting point for editing your photos.
* **Camera Settings:** This option uses the color profile, white balance, and exposure settings that were used in your camera when the photo was taken. This can give you a more accurate representation of the colors in your photo.
* **Preset:** This option allows you to apply a custom preset to your raw images when you import them. Presets can include a variety of settings, such as color profile, white balance, exposure, and contrast.

You can also choose to customize the RAW data camera settings for specific cameras. This can be useful if you have a camera that produces images with a particular look or feel that you want to preserve. To do this, go to **Edit > Preferences > Presets** (Windows) or **Lightroom Classic > Preferences > Presets** (Mac). In the **Raw Defaults** section, select the **Override master settings for specific cameras** checkbox. Then, select the camera model from the **Camera** drop-down menu and choose the desired settings from the **Default** drop-down menu.

Once you have selected your RAW data camera settings, you can import your raw images into Lightroom Classic. Lightroom Classic will automatically apply the selected settings to your images. You can then adjust the settings as needed using the Develop module.

Draft 2

Lightroom Classic uses RAW data camera settings to automatically process your raw images when you import them. This can save you a lot of time and effort, as you don't have to manually adjust the settings for each image.

There are three main RAW data camera settings that Lightroom Classic uses:

* **Color profile:** This setting determines the overall color of your images. Lightroom Classic includes a variety of color profiles to choose from, so you can find one that best suits your style.

* **Shadows:** This setting controls the brightness of the shadows in your images. If you want to bring out more detail in the shadows, you can increase this setting.

* **Highlights:** This setting controls the brightness of the highlights in your images. If you want to avoid blown-out highlights, you can decrease this setting.

In addition to these three main settings, Lightroom Classic also uses a variety of other settings to process your raw images. These settings include:

* **White balance:** This setting determines the color temperature of your images.

* **Contrast:** This setting controls the contrast of your images.

* **Sharpness:** This setting controls the sharpness of your images.

* **Noise reduction:** This setting reduces the amount of noise in your images.

You can adjust these settings to your liking in the Develop module in Lightroom Classic. However, if you're not sure what settings to use, you can leave them at their default values and let Lightroom Classic do the work for you.

Here are the steps on how to use RAW data camera settings in Lightroom Classic:

1. Open Lightroom Classic and import your raw images.

2. In the Library module, select the images that you want to process.

3. Click the Develop button to open the Develop module.

4. In the Develop module, click the Camera Calibration tab.

5. In the Camera Calibration tab, select the color profile that you want to use.

6. Adjust the Shadows, Highlights, White Balance, Contrast, Sharpness, and Noise Reduction settings to your liking.

7. Click the Export button to export your processed images.

I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.

Draft 3

Lightroom Classic uses RAW data camera settings to automatically process your raw images when you import them. This can save you a lot of time and effort, as you don't have to manually adjust the settings for each image.

There are two main ways to use RAW data camera settings in Lightroom Classic:

* **Use the Adobe default settings.** This is the simplest option, and it will apply the same settings to all of your raw images.

* **Use the camera settings.** This option will apply the settings that were used in your camera when the image was taken. This can give you more control over the look of your images, but it can also take more time to set up.

To use the Adobe default settings, go to **Edit > Preferences** (Windows) or **Lightroom Classic > Preferences** (macOS). In the **Presets** tab, select **Adobe Default** from the **Master** drop-down menu.

To use the camera settings, go to **Edit > Preferences** (Windows) or **Lightroom Classic > Preferences** (macOS). In the **Presets** tab, select **Camera Settings** from the **Master** drop-down menu. Then, select your camera from the **Camera** drop-down menu.

You can also create your own custom presets. To do this, go to **Develop > New Preset**. In the **New Develop Preset** dialog box, give your preset a name and select the settings that you want to apply. Then, click **Create**.

Once you have created a preset, you can apply it to any raw image by selecting it from the **Presets** drop-down menu in the **Develop** panel.

Here are some tips for using RAW data camera settings in Lightroom Classic:

* Experiment with different settings to see what looks best for your images.

* Save your favorite settings as presets so that you can apply them quickly and easily to future images.

* Use the **Camera Settings** option if you want to get the most accurate color reproduction.

* Use the **Adobe Default** option if you want to get a quick start with minimal editing." 

       Edit: more information

Olympus OM-D

I'll update this blog post as I lear more.

Live Comp is one of the most intriguing functions in my new camera.

Live Comp

More

Olympus Live Composite

https://asia.olympus-imaging.com/product/dslr/em5mk3/index.html

Super Control

Interesting likes

   OM-D Learning

   Live Composite

Focus Bracketing

The Settings it's the damn settings

We've all heard it. Reset your camera settings to your base, your standard, settings.

I recently purchased a new camera. More dials, buttons, options. I know my old camera and I could reset to my grab an go settings.

It should be easy, and it is. But there are many things to consider.

I've been using M, manual, mode with auto iso. But I frequently miss something. I have a checklist I need to follow it.

RAW or JPG

The debate rages on.

1 there is no camera sensor that creates a JPG image.

2. All digital sensors create a RAW data file.

3. All JPG images are a compressed processed data files.

4. All JPG files are post processed, firmware or software, RAW image data file.

In a "I shoot JPG" image you let the camera manufacturer post process the RAW data file.

All "I shoot RAW" means is that you choose to do the "dark room" processing with yourself.

YOU shoot RAW. Get over it!

This photo that I found may help you understand why you want to post process your RAW images rather than your camera supplier JPG.

It's about stops

I've read this a few months ago. I'm a lot more comfortable using my camera.

It's all about Stops

Thoughts on Lightroom and Workflow

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1vh25epXhdrCBkR6xuQ3cVgEcEtJFC3JMf9JENrVU4Lw/edit?usp=drivesdk

I have a new camera

I now have a OLYMPUS OM-D E-M5 III.

This is how I am learning my new camera

Some Lightroom shortcuts

I'm in a few FB pages but not all my friends use FB so here are some links you might find useful

Try https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/help/keyboard-shortcuts.html

And

https://lightroomkillertips.com/my-10-most-used-lightroom-shortcuts/

And

https://digital-photography-school.com/lightroom-shortcuts-every-photographer-needs-to-know/

Camera settings

Often photographers, especially the less experienced, ask, what settings should I use?

The settings to use depends on what you are attempting to do. 

This link may give you some help, 

Later I will add some clarification to the document.

In my Nikon D5500 with a 18-200mm 3.4-5.6 aperture for general walk around I start with f/8.0 at 1/320s shutter speed. I would have my ISO to auto with minimum shutter speed 1/60 max iso 1600. Auto White Balance and Manual mode. Spot focus and metering.

Knowing that my thumb wheel uses 3 clicks to change expose 1 stop I will adjust shutter speed since that is the easiest.  If I want more or less depth of field, more or less light I will hold my exposure compensation button and use the thumb wheel.

Resolution

I've heard and read about resolution and a lot of the talk is a little grey. Maybe this article will help.

Resolution

bokeh, aperture, focal length

I like to shoot, at times, basically portrait/macro style, photos with a lot of bokeh. The convention wisdom is use the largest aperture available. But we need to keep focal length in mind.

A few days I was taking what I call "a walk around" shoot. My camera settings were, M, Auto ISO 100-1600, f/5.3, 800s. I took a photo of a flower filling the frame focal length 112mm. A little later I took a photo of a garden rabbit. But the focal length was 18mm, f/3.5.

The bokeh on the flower was great but everything in the garden rabbit was all in focus, no bokeh.

So the convention is a faster lens would give a greater bokeh one needs to consider the focal length too. I am shooting with a Nikon D5500 using a  18-200mm Nikon lens.

Photoshop course

I've found Photoshop system very good.

* https://mattk.com/photoshopsystem/

* https://phlearn.com/tutorial/30-days-photoshop-introduction/

* https://livelinktraining.com/home/ps-photoshop/photoshop-essential-skills/

Group Photo Shot

Hey it's a group photo. join the group. Taller in the back shorter to the front. Get together make like you like, well at least tolerate, the person next to you. Face the camera, Tilt you cap/visor back a little.

Setting shutter speed when using ND filter

It's all about stops. 

What shutter speed should I use when I'm using an ND filter? Let's say I'm using apature priority set  f/16, iso 100 with no filter. Assume the the camera provides a shutter speed of 1/400s. What shutter speed should I use when I screw on my 10 stop ND filter?  

*** I added

Change your camera to Manual. Set your apature and iso to the same you used for for your previous shot   (f/16 iso 100 shutter speed 1/400s) Screw on your 10 stop ND filter.

Now lower your shutter speed 10 stops.

*** End add

On my camera 3 clicks on my thumb wheel = 1 stop. So I figure 30 clicks = 10 stops and this should provide a good first approximate for exposure