Lightroom for iPad, it's free

 Those that have an Adobe subscription already know it's not free. For those that are not subscribers you can use iPad App Store to download the application. Once you bypass the subscription page you are on.

The Free version have several features that are not available and are noted a blue *. The main thing is the the masking features. Following are a few screenshots with comments. I have not viewed all icons and can't discuss them.

Note that the masking options have the blue *, you need to subscribe to get them. Click on the i on the lower right and you see the next image.

Here you can add Title, Caption, Copyright, stars and flags to your image.

In the above image I added the Histogram to the display. 

You need to take some time to see what the other icon's do.

 

Are Your Photos Blurry?

 Some some say that they have problems getting a sharp photo and ask why?

There are several factors, as the article below will discuss 13.

But to me it boils to SHUTTER SPEED being to slow.

In this discussion I'm talking about Hand Held photography.

Many folks swear that the best camera mode is Aperture Priority. Also many have read or heard that to eliminate the chance of Camera Shake is that the shutter speed should be at a minimum of 1/(focal length). So when you are using a 18-200mm zoom lens that suggests 1/18 to 1/200 sec. Yes that's the guide, some might say rule. BUT, there is alway a but, the guides are all about Full Frame, FF, cameras. So your favorite  Nikon D7200 has a crop factor of 1.5 so your effective aperture is 27-300mm. So 1/27-1/300 seconds. That's a minimum shutter speed. Me I'd double it.

Back to Aperture Priority. At a fixed ISO, even when you are using Auto ISO, your camera adjust the Aperture first before it reaches the Auto ISO settings. That means your full zoom lens, which the guide suggests 1/300s may be much less at your chosen Aperture. The result is a potentially blurry photo. 

Ok, I'll use Shutter Priority that way I can control the Shutter Speed. That may work But you don't have control of your Aperture. That may or not be what you need for your subject. Once your Camera opened the Aperture all the way the only thing to increase the exposure is raise the ISO.

What to do? It all depends on what you want to accomplish with your photo. 

Me? I frequently use the dreaded big M. But it's not that big a deal because I use a Semi Manual called Auto ISO, my secret sauce. I set the Shutter Speed and Aperture for the scene and let the ISO float to get the proper exposure. Frequently used for BIF. BUT , we keep coming to tha BUT, that not for all situtations like Low light, long exposure, and many more.

This article, from Fstoppers, will explain  13 reasons you may get blurry photos.

BiF, Birds in Flight

 I read an article about 5 Common Mistakes. I took the article and wrote my comments and bulleted the 5 Mistakes with comments and included the original article.

This is a link to my PDF File.

"Rules" of Composition (UP DATE)

Too paraphrase Blazing Saddles, We Don't need no stinking rules. But we do have guidelines.

We have discussed Leading Lines in many photography meetings I've attended. But do you consciously plan your photo based on the guidelines or do you just "see" them. Do they just fit your composition? After you see the "print" do you think. "Oh, good use of leading lines". 

In MattK's course "Inside the Composition (Basic)" he discusses "We take photos of things we know or have seen". Basically what you have seen or learned, like leading lines, develop your ability to "see the photo" often you need to see the photo in the photo, meaning that you need to see less than the wide view and zoom to a smaller area.

I think you get to a point, after taking and viewing many photos, that you no longer think about the compositional guides you just apply them. Of course not every photo you take is compositional great, but you learn from them and put them in the trash. 

Unless you want artistic photo, your photos must be in focus, and doesn't grate like nails on a chalkboard,  https://larrysphotography41.blogspot.com/2023/04/nails-on-chalkboard.html?m=1

Leading lines

Are rules ruining your photography?

https://fstoppers.com/education/rules-will-kill-your-photography-creativity-part-one-469954

When I looked my older photos , maybe before I was aware of the "rules" I photos that looked right. No "rules"

A video of RULES

Stamp Clone Tool

I haven't really knew the available options or how to use it. This video may help 

https://youtu.be/OMsgngFUjns

Edit Replay using Lightroom mobile

I frequently enable share photos by using Lightroom classic collection sharing. I them use Lightroom mobile to share them to various social media or others.

One of the features available on Lightroom mobile are to create an "Edit Replay" following is an example 

Problems with my camera

We went for a Maple Creamee after cleaning up after the flooding in Vermont. After we finished our treat I decided to take a photo of the treeline grunge line.

I grabbed my camera but of there's Hawk flying alone the field. Full zoo, dark view finder. What's wrong. Auto ISO, f/8.0, 1/500s. What's wrong? Changed to sequence shooting. No help. What could be wrong?

Then I removed the lens cap. Duh. What a roockie.

Photoing textures

The Camera Club I an a member of suggested for our next meeting we submit photos of textures.

So I wanted to see what Bard, Google's AI, would suggest. There were 3 drafts and I choose 3, which is below.

Here are some suggestions for photoing textures:

• Use a macro lens. A macro lens will allow you to get up close and personal with the texture, capturing all the details.
  Opens in a new windowwww.the-digital-picture.com

  Macro lens
• Use a polarizing filter. A polarizing filter can help to reduce reflections and glare, making the texture stand out more.
  Opens in a new windowwww.bhphotovideo.com

  Polarizing filter
• Use natural light. Natural light is the best light for capturing texture. If you're shooting indoors, try to find a window with soft, diffused light.
• Experiment with different angles. Try shooting the texture from different angles to see how it changes. You may find that one angle reveals the texture more than another.
• Use a tripod. A tripod will help to keep your camera steady, which is important for capturing sharp images of textures.
• Edit your photos. Once you've taken your photos, you can edit them to further enhance the texture. You can use photo editing software to adjust the contrast, saturation, and brightness of your photos.

Here are some additional tips:

• Choose a texture that is interesting and visually appealing. The texture should be something that will capture the viewer's attention.
• Simplify the background. A cluttered background will distract from the texture. Try to simplify the background so that the texture is the main focus of the photo.
• Crop your photos tightly. Cropping your photos tightly will help to emphasize the texture.

I hope these suggestions help you to take great photos of textures

DoF, Depth Of Field?

 We have learned that to get a shallow DoF use a large Aperture. So why does your cellphone camera with a large Aperture, say f/1.7, have a wide DoF. Basically why is everything in acceptable focus?

Why?

Use the comment area to post your answer(s)

BBAF and Auto ISO, My Secret Sauce

 With anything in photography Your Mileage May Vary, YMMV. You may differ with me and that's OK. It's all about getting the shot.

I must say in 2015 I learned BBAF in a camera club in AZ. Used it and then discarded it. A few years later I rediscovered it and it has need my primary focus mode.

BBAF - https://youtu.be/5fjwZ7HYtbs

Once I decided that noise was something I could tolerate I primarily use BBAF + Auto ISO .

Manual with Auto ISO - https://youtu.be/UPZPv3Z5t_o

My blog post Auto ISO 

My Blog post Why I Stopped Worring About Hi ISO 

What Settings? photographing northern lights

A while ago I wrote "Don't Ask Me". Since it may be clear night and the northern lights may give me a show I asked Bard, "What are the recommend settings for photographing northern lights with OM-D E-M5 iii"

And AI said "The following are the recommended settings for photographing the Northern Lights with the OM-D E-M5 iii:

• Aperture: f/2.8 or wider. This will allow as much light as possible into the camera, which is essential for capturing the faint light of the aurora.
• ISO: 3200-8000. This will determine how sensitive the camera is to light. A higher ISO will allow you to use a shorter shutter speed, which will help to reduce blur.
• Shutter speed: 1-12 seconds. This will determine how long the camera's shutter is open, allowing light to hit the sensor. A longer shutter speed will allow more light in, but it will also increase the risk of blur.
• White balance: 3500K. This will ensure that the colors of the aurora are accurate.
• Focus: Manual. Autofocus will not be able to focus on the aurora, so you will need to focus manually on a distant light source.

Here are some additional tips for photographing the Northern Lights with the OM-D E-M5 iii:

• Use a tripod to keep the camera steady.
• Use a remote shutter release to avoid camera shake.
• Shoot in RAW format to give you more flexibility in post-processing.
• Experiment with different settings to see what works best for you.

With a little planning and practice, you can capture stunning images of the Northern Lights with your OM-D E-M5 iii.

Here are some additional resources that you may find helpful:

• How to Photograph the Northern Lights with Your Olympus Camera: https://focus9photography.com/free-tutorials/2020/1/22/how-to-shoot-the-northern-lights-aurora-borealis-with-your-olympus-camera
• Night Lights: Photographing the Magic of the Aurora Borealis: https://learnandsupport.getolympus.com/learn-center/photography-tips/astrophotography/night-lights-photographing-the-magic-of-the-aurora
• The Northern Lights: 10 Photography Tips for Beginners: https://www.hurtigruten.com/inspiration/experiences/the-northern-lights/10-photography-tips-for-beginners/"

Just say'n

IMHO all recommendations are just a starting point. Use the settings, take a test shot, evaluate your results and adjust ONE setting. 

Focus is likely the most problematic and most important settings. Use manual focus. Most Mirrorless have focus peaking adjustment. Learn it and Use it. With a DSLR use live view and, with both, zoom to a distant object and focus. 

I't my Opinion YMMV

 What is the purpose of a Photographic Challenge?

Is it ok to recycle photos you have taken in the past to fit the current Challenge?

If so what did you learn? If the setting that were used on you previous camera do they fit your current gear? Ok you met the "challenge" but did you actually learn anything new or find a new location.

In my OPINION it was a useless endeavor. You only searched your catalog of photos to fit the goal. Even if it's the same old subject, challenge, find something new. Get out of your comfort zone. Take a photo. Use your camera not your computer.

That my Opinion. 

It's Not That Simple. There are no absolutes (UP Date)

 I'll use [] to show changes and additions.

Pressing the shutter release is the simple part. Everything takes time and experience.

Most everything you read, videos you watch, meetings or workshops you attend suggest "do this .." to become a better photographer. But there are no, NO, absolutes only guides. To improve your photography you need to actually take photos and analyze your results.

I would say the only absolute is composition, focus and as MattK says "The Why ..." Why did you take the photo.

Yes there are "rules" for composition but which for this situation?

Aperture Priority for landscape but ...

 [If there is anything that is moving or may move because of the wind or people you need to consider the shutter speed.  Your camera is will create a "proper" exposure based on your other settings such as White Balance, WB, Metering and Picture Profile like Vivid, Portrait, etc. To accomplish, with a fixed ISO, will adjust the Shutter Speed, SS. to get the "proper" exposure.  The general guideline for proper hand held SS is 1/(focal length) so if your are at 50mm that is 1/100 s.]

Shutter Priority for motion but ...

[Similarly your camera will give you a "proper" exposure.. To do this your camera will adjust the aperture to accomplish it.  However your photo may be soft at the extremes of your scene Consider you are taking a landscape on a windy day and you want the foreground, middle ground and background free of blur. Say your SS is 1/600s  The only thing your camera can adjust is the aperture. Your camera analyzes the scene and  determine the proper Aperture is f/4.0. Is everything acceptably sharp? maybe, maybe not.]

Low ISO for a cleaner photo but ...

[Back in the day, actually not that long ago, many preached "always use ISO 100". Modern camera sensors and software have come a long way. Yes ISO 100 is cleaner, less noise, than 12800 however IMHO get the shot, well exposed, acceptably sharp and focus. Let your camera sensor or/and processing software take care of the noise.]

Never use AUTO but ...

[Consider using AUTO to guide to your settings, when you hand your camera to someone else to take a photo. Frequently the photo is acceptable.]

Use JPEG but ...

[JPEG when you don't do much postprocessing or immediate posting to others. Remember that JPG is like a  wrapped deli ham sandwich.  You can unwrap and add some condiments but it is still a ham sandwich. ]

Use RAW but ...

[On the other had a RAW file might look like a ham sandwich on your cameras LCD. And you can use postprocessing to make is a toasted turkey and ham sandwich. Your choice.]

Fast shutter speed to eliminate or reduce motion blur but ...

[Is that what you want? It is an artistic choice. Do your want to show motion by blur? Do you want to stop an arrow or bird in flight. These are artistic choices.]

Aperture controls DoF but ...

[Yes a large aperture, small f number, yields a shallow DoF. However there are other variables in play. Such as sensor size, distance between camea, subject and background and add focal length. Often those variables are more important than aperture. See dof simulator]

What is DoF?

["is the distance between the nearest and farthest objects in a photo that appear acceptably sharp"]

Use evaluative metering but ...

[All consumer cameras are set to evaluate the light reaching the sensor so  that the brightest and darkest to 18% gray or grey. What is 18%grey? Also remember that other metermoes, center weighted and spot us that are measure the 18% grey of that area.]  

Use Scene mode but ...

[IMHO use them as a guide. Once you have traveled the photography path I seldom use them. Usually for talking points.]

Full Frame or Crop is best but ...

[Yes Full Frame, FF, has a lot of advantages over than other sensor sizes. When you view an image is it half full or half empty? You need to evaluate your needs and make your own decision.]

Lighting, back, front, side, shadow, harsh, soft, golden, blue, ... hour, ...

[Again you need to learn what they are and when to use them. Sometime you have to deal with the light you have. Basically use you feet and walk around the scene to see what light works best for your photo.]

[A new camera will improve my photography

No it will not! If you take bad photos with your current gear new equipment will still take bad photos. New gear may be easier to use for you, maye assist or improve the Auto focus, and provide other features you desire BUT it will not make bad photos better.  Learn you current camera to the max.]

There is no one thing that makes you a better photographer. It is the combination of all the items above and more that make you a better photographer. But, in my opinion, you need to know your camera. What buttor, what menu item, what ... If you don't know your camera you will be unable to utilize it to your fullest. This applies to the simplest Point and Shoot, Cell Phone camera to the latest wize bang Mirrorless.

Let me paraphrase President Kennedy's quote "We choose to go to the Moon in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard."

This way, We choose to become a better photographers not because they are easy, but because they are hard.

[You only get better by taking photos and analyzing your results.]

BBAF and Auto, my secret sauce

With anything in photography Your Mileage May Vary. You may differ with me and that's OK. It's all about getting the shot.

I must say in 2015 I learned BBAF in a camera club in AZ. Used it and then discarded it. A few years later I rediscovered it and it has need my primary focus mode.

BBAF https://youtu.be/5fjwZ7HYtbs

Once I decided that noise was something I could tolerate I primarily use Auto ISO .

Manual with Auto ISO https://youtu.be/UPZPv3Z5t_o

As all YMMV.