Organize your photos

The best way you organize your photos is that works best fit you. However the most important starting point is using a single driver. I highly recommend use a single external drive. Similar to <my external drive>\my photos\...

Mine is <my external drive>\my photos\

After years using a date structure I've started using Categories. Some of mine are, LANDSCAPE, SPORTS, PEOPLE, EVENTS, TRIPS, etc. I have subfolders as needed to keep NAMES AND DATES to fit the category. 

But Larry what about landscape, sunrise and similar? My choice is "it depends". When it's a part of a TRIP it goes into TRIPS and, when I remember, I add keywords and map information.

It's your choice. What works for you is your Right Way.

I started using Categories in Lightroom Classic. I did not go through the thousands of using  date organiztion. 

But when I began to use Lightroom I created a new folder called LIGHTROOM CLOUD\CATEGORIES if I want I can easily Import any into Lightroom Classic.

Organizing Your Photos 

Every expert, content creator, ... has their way to do it. It may not work for you. How do you organize is the best way for YOU.  BUT once you begin to use Lightroom Classic only use Lightroom Library to rename, move or otherwise modify your photo locations, names etc.

In YouTube I entered this search "how to organise photos in lightroom classic " and there are lots of the best way. You need to find the way that works for you. Following are some that I have viewed and I'm still searching for the BEST . 

I want to avoid having a mess 

The Kelby Way

The Tim Grey Way 

5 Ways 

The PHlearn series 

Will moving to Lightroom change my Post-processing?

A friend asked "... better understanding of how moving to Lightroom would change my post-processing."

The short answer, not at all. It's a matter of workflow.

My longer answer "Nothing in post processing has really changed. No one will improve their editing. Camera RAW is Lightroom, they're dentical. The layout in Lightroom is better than classic.

Think of Lightroom as file browser that links to Lightroom Development with the browser.

To me the gain is no catalog, library, lost images, no need to choose delete catalog or delete from disk and catalog.

The loss is no collections in local, no labels, map, book, print, no edit history (but you can create "snap shots")...

 

As far as no labels, I the main directory of a shoot I have created a subdirectory and put the shoot there. Then after that I only move the best to the top level.

If you installed presets they don't directly transfer. They are on your computer and easily loaded."

Lightroom or Lightroom Classic?

My journey Lightroom Classic -> Lightroom  When I began using Lighroom Classic I have organized my files by date, yyyy-mm-dd. Often in Lightroom Classic, LRc, I would change the file name with the date + area/category. When I bought a course to learn Lightroom, before it was known as Lightroom Classic, the suggestion to organize by date. So that's what I've done.  Then along way, after a few years, I watched this, by Scott Kelby,   It made sense but should I change? Not likely. But I decided to there's no time like the next shoot. So I created a folder CATEGORIES. I used all caps to make it standout. Then I added subfolders for each category. Now each shoot goes into a category. Since the images are where I want them input just add to the catalog. Then along comes Adobe MAX 2023. And in Lightroom CC they rebrand it and drop the CC and add the feature ‘Local’. Ok so?  I'm happy with Lightroom Classic and then I listen to Mattk’s new podcast,  Then the videos    Scott Kelby Terry White Brian Matiash  Ok, Ok. Look into it. Maybe 90-95% of the time I used the Library and Develop modules. Can I live without a few features that Lightroom Classic has that Lightroom can't. I think so. Let's give it a try. But, there's always a but. The big but is. Don't move, rename any folders outside of Lightroom Classic. Any or all folders created within Lightroom are only moved or renamed in Lightroom. Why? Edits are still non-destructive, no catalog, no import. But the Adobe Cloud? All my images are on my external drive. I don't need ‘no stink’n cloud ‘ or badge's as they said in “Blazing Saddles”. I don't NEED Adobe Cloud But when I want to use it I can choose to “copy to the cloud”.  copy is the operative word. A copy with your edits is, let say exported, to the cloud. Just like when in Lightroom Classic you sync a collection.  Basically you are not required to change what you currently do.  Me, I'm all in. That doesn't I'm deleting Lightroom Classic and it's supporting files. So maybe I'm not so All In. I'll hedge my bets. I have been  You may want to read https://www.matiash.com/blog/common-lightroom-myths-busted

Choose Your Aperture

In a recent sippet from The Grid ( about 30inutes in) got me thinking how to choose the Aperture.

Usually I desk check to consider the Aperture I'll use considering my expectation of the scene. I use Photopills app on my phone. You may use this web version. 

As an example I wanted to that light trails of lighted Disc Golf. I wanted to use my 12mm f/2.0 lens. Since there is no way I could focus on the dark what could I do?

I used Photopills DoF and setup my camera type. f/2.0 then estimated the subject distance to the camera of 50 ft.

https://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof

That didn't work since the near distance was 49.+ ft. So what if the lighted Disc lands say 10ft fromy camera? That gives me 9.9ft to infinity, https://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof. 

I then used my flashlight to focus about 10ft from the camera.

The result yes but some of the discs landed out of the Depth of field in front so they are not sharp.

To me it's all about "acceptable" sharpness. 

Of course YMMV.

More than BIF

I like the challenge of photping Birds In Flight, BIF.  Following links discuss shutter speed, metering and a crash course for BIF. Many of most if not all are useful for any photography.

Shutter Speeds for Tack Sharp BIF 

Spot Metering Crash Course 

BIF Crash Course

I hope you find them useful.

Critique these photos

I had watch some Blind Critique by Kelby and thought it might be interesting if we did a critique of photos I found on FB. So I have a few below that we can critique. You should be able to open the link below and there is an area to add your comments.  You have any skin in these photos to be honest in your comments.

So Please give it a try.

Critique these photos 

Blind Critique by Scott Kelby

I haven't been watching "The Grid"  because I don't watch the commercials or the other gab. But when I find a Facebook video I can fast forward.

Following are a few and I would like to know if that those that don't use FB can see them.

https://fb.watch/nl8JdUueqY/?mibextid=Nif5o

https://www.facebook.com/KelbyOneOnline/videos/697668748890469/

Please let me know in the comments.

Think Where You Crop

Years ago Randy gave us some guidance on cropping people. I remembered much of it. Like cutting hand at the wrist or other joints and a few things. So rather than bother Randy I asked Bard and following is the question and result.

Lens Filters, Who knew

 I recently saw a milky way photo with foreground lighting that had star bursts on a point light source taken with a Hasselbland f/4.0 21mm. So I asked how do you get star bursts with an f/4.0 aperture? Every thing I've read is use a small aperture like f/11.0 or smaller.

A reply said that the photographer likely used a Star Filter. What? Frequently we hear about UV, CpL, ND, graduated ND  and light pollution filters. So my education is lacking so I asked Bard for help.

Some of there special filters that it, Bard is an it (AI ).

• Close-up filter to allow allow you to focus closer than your camera. See Hoya
• Light Pollution filter From PetaPixel to get the detail. and see Hoya.
• Star Burst to create a star burst say in an aperture of f/4.0 again from Hoya.
• And more see PetaPixel

From Bard Types of Filters and Special Filters 

Photoshop's Select and Mask Workspace

 I have had had difficult get a making a good selection and refining it to insure it is what I want.

I dug around and found this Adobe information about it's Dedicated Select & Mask Workspace.

I wanted to make a selection so that I  could use Adobe's Generative Fill which was just announced to be in Photoshop. I've been using the beta for maybe a week or so. I created the image 

From this

Yes I need to work on my selection but not to bad.

WOW This is so ---

 I've been trying Photoshop (beta) Generative Fill. It is amazing what AI can do. Following are 2 images where I used Generative Fill on the first image to create the second image. WOW!

The above photo was sent by a friend of mine I attempted to us Photoshop masking and other tools to remove the branch across the face of the Owl. I gave up because I didn't have the time or perhaps skills to create a reasonable image.

Now bring in Photoshop (beta) which you can get from your Creative Cloud. I used the lasso tool to to mace a loose selection around most of the branch. Clicked Generate and walla, well just wait a few seconds, and you get 3 choices. If you don;t like any of the 3 ask Generate to do it again ad get 3 nnore.

I took the second image of the fiet Generate.  I'm blown away.

5 Tips For Taking Better Photos With Any Mobile Device

I didn't follow my own advice. I read the article and thought my pixel 6a is better s better than ditching the default camera.

Then after going through the the various settings I found the article is 4 years old. In camera years that could be 4 thousand years. My Google Pixel 6a is not that old. I do have another camera app that is included with Lightroom mobile that has a few additional features. 

Following are a few screenshots of the settings on my pixel.

Actually I also use the camera include with Lightroom Mobile. You can download Lightroom Mobile for free but it is not as full featured as those that have a subscription, 

Additionally most allow you to take a RAW file, usually a DNG file. Both are "digital negatives" because they need to be processed, basically "Developed".

i can tell how to reach the settings on my phone but your phone is likely different.

Screenshots from my Lightroom mobile camera.

Sharing your photo work

 I had wrote a post about using the Adobe Ecosystem. However I left out an  important link from Jared Platt. This 50 minute video goes into more detail of using the ecosystem to share your work.

I have been using the portfolio to create a portfolio for the Snowbirds, Disc Golf, and my personal work. Additionally John and Steve have posted their own portfolios.

I have found the video from Jared to be most useful and suggest you investigate it's features.

Anthony Morganti: The Dark Side of Instagram

 I've pretty much gave up on most of the Social Media for posting my photography. My blog has a page dedicated to photos and also use Adobe Ecosystem to share my photos.

Anthony Morganti: The Dark Side of Instagram

Comments are welcome.

DoF, Depth of Field

Previously I wrote on DoF and wanted to follow up. So I asked Bard for help.  

Basically what many don't tell you is that there are 4 major factors that influence DoF. 

• Aperture
• Focal Length
• Distance between camera, subject and background
• Sensor size

Read the links above for detail and use DoF Simulator setting your camera and lens to get an idea of your DoF

The Picture in the Picture

 In one of MattK's courses of youtube videos he discussed the photo in the photo. So I took one of our camera club's photo and edited and cropped to view the Photo in the Photo. As you are taking some photos you may want to think about the Photo in the photo.

The original photo

Tonal editing

The photo in the photo with cropping. I suggest using a longer focal length.

The photo in the photo photo with more cropping. Again use a longer focal length.

Often times in the moment I don't think about the photo in the photo in landscape.  Since I usually have a zoom lens on my camera it's a non issue to crop in camera, zoom, and look at the results in your computer to see what you like best.

Oh, used the photo without permission.

You never know what you will find

Looking through my Lightroom Classic catalog I came across this.

Other recent additions are here 

Lightroom.adobe.com Have you used it?

 You can use Lightroom Web and sign into your account and use many features.

For example on a lightroom classic shared collection you can allow Adobe AI to select the best photos in the collection. You can set thresholds for people and your ratings and flaggs.

Click the 3 dots on the right to make the dialog show. Then click "Choos Best Photos"

Then 

Then you can adjust options to see the AI selections.

This is how Gooble Bard, AI, says the selections are done 

Become a better photographer

The following links from Steve Perry's Backcontry Gallery may likely help your become a better photographer. The links deal with Birds in Flight but the information is relevant to all photography

Shutter Speeds for Tack Sharp BIF  This applies to all photos that you have taken that are blurry

BIF Crash Course  Basically this applies to all motion, Wildlife, sports, etc.

Spot Metering Crash Course   Applies to all metering on your camera.

The right height 

Photoing a Bubble

At the Florida folk festival there was a bubble machine.  As an inquisitive soul I wondered, can I capture a bubble and have a decent photo?

You be the judge.

Do you create our take a photo?

Is there a difference? It's really how you look at the world and photography. Anyone with a camera can take a photo fewer can create a photo.

Creating a photo takes; 

• Planning
• Composition
• Lighting
• Angle
• Subject or as MattK states a "Why"

I asked My friend Bard, "What is the difference between creating a photo and taking a photo "

And he gave me 3 versions. flowing is 1: 

The words "create" and "take" are often used interchangeably when talking about photography, but there is a subtle difference between the two.

• To take a photo is to capture an image of a scene or object using a camera. This is the most basic definition of photography, and it is how most people use the word "take" in this context.
• To create a photo is to go beyond simply capturing an image. It is to use the camera to express your own artistic vision, and to create an image that is more than just a record of reality. This can involve things like choosing the right composition, using lighting to create a certain mood, or editing the image to achieve a specific look.

In general, the term "create" is more likely to be used by professional photographers who take their work seriously. They see photography as a form of art, and they use their skills to create images that are both visually appealing and meaningful.

The term "take" is more likely to be used by casual photographers who are simply interested in capturing memories. They may not have the same level of technical skill as professional photographers, but they can still create beautiful images by simply pointing and shooting.

Of course, there is no hard and fast rule about when to use one term or the other. The best way to choose the right word is to think about your own intentions when you take a photo. If you are simply capturing a moment, then "take" is probably the best word to use. But if you are trying to create something more artistic, then "create" might be a better choice.

Here are some examples of how the two terms might be used in different contexts:

• "I took a photo of my family at the beach."
• "The photographer created a stunning image of the sunset over the ocean."
• "I'm going to create a photo collage to commemorate our trip."
• "I took a photo of the painting in the museum."

Ultimately, the choice of words is up to you. But if you want to be more precise in your communication, then it's helpful to understandthe difference between "create" and "take."

This is an example of creating a photo, https://fstoppers.com/film/truth-behind-one-americas-most-famous-photos-334984

Lightroom for iPad, it's free

 Those that have an Adobe subscription already know it's not free. For those that are not subscribers you can use iPad App Store to download the application. Once you bypass the subscription page you are on.

The Free version have several features that are not available and are noted a blue *. The main thing is the the masking features. Following are a few screenshots with comments. I have not viewed all icons and can't discuss them.

Note that the masking options have the blue *, you need to subscribe to get them. Click on the i on the lower right and you see the next image.

Here you can add Title, Caption, Copyright, stars and flags to your image.

In the above image I added the Histogram to the display. 

You need to take some time to see what the other icon's do.

 

Are Your Photos Blurry?

 Some some say that they have problems getting a sharp photo and ask why?

There are several factors, as the article below will discuss 13.

But to me it boils to SHUTTER SPEED being to slow.

In this discussion I'm talking about Hand Held photography.

Many folks swear that the best camera mode is Aperture Priority. Also many have read or heard that to eliminate the chance of Camera Shake is that the shutter speed should be at a minimum of 1/(focal length). So when you are using a 18-200mm zoom lens that suggests 1/18 to 1/200 sec. Yes that's the guide, some might say rule. BUT, there is alway a but, the guides are all about Full Frame, FF, cameras. So your favorite  Nikon D7200 has a crop factor of 1.5 so your effective aperture is 27-300mm. So 1/27-1/300 seconds. That's a minimum shutter speed. Me I'd double it.

Back to Aperture Priority. At a fixed ISO, even when you are using Auto ISO, your camera adjust the Aperture first before it reaches the Auto ISO settings. That means your full zoom lens, which the guide suggests 1/300s may be much less at your chosen Aperture. The result is a potentially blurry photo. 

Ok, I'll use Shutter Priority that way I can control the Shutter Speed. That may work But you don't have control of your Aperture. That may or not be what you need for your subject. Once your Camera opened the Aperture all the way the only thing to increase the exposure is raise the ISO.

What to do? It all depends on what you want to accomplish with your photo. 

Me? I frequently use the dreaded big M. But it's not that big a deal because I use a Semi Manual called Auto ISO, my secret sauce. I set the Shutter Speed and Aperture for the scene and let the ISO float to get the proper exposure. Frequently used for BIF. BUT , we keep coming to tha BUT, that not for all situtations like Low light, long exposure, and many more.

This article, from Fstoppers, will explain  13 reasons you may get blurry photos.

BiF, Birds in Flight

 I read an article about 5 Common Mistakes. I took the article and wrote my comments and bulleted the 5 Mistakes with comments and included the original article.

This is a link to my PDF File.

"Rules" of Composition (UP DATE)

Too paraphrase Blazing Saddles, We Don't need no stinking rules. But we do have guidelines.

We have discussed Leading Lines in many photography meetings I've attended. But do you consciously plan your photo based on the guidelines or do you just "see" them. Do they just fit your composition? After you see the "print" do you think. "Oh, good use of leading lines". 

In MattK's course "Inside the Composition (Basic)" he discusses "We take photos of things we know or have seen". Basically what you have seen or learned, like leading lines, develop your ability to "see the photo" often you need to see the photo in the photo, meaning that you need to see less than the wide view and zoom to a smaller area.

I think you get to a point, after taking and viewing many photos, that you no longer think about the compositional guides you just apply them. Of course not every photo you take is compositional great, but you learn from them and put them in the trash. 

Unless you want artistic photo, your photos must be in focus, and doesn't grate like nails on a chalkboard,  https://larrysphotography41.blogspot.com/2023/04/nails-on-chalkboard.html?m=1

Leading lines

Are rules ruining your photography?

https://fstoppers.com/education/rules-will-kill-your-photography-creativity-part-one-469954

When I looked my older photos , maybe before I was aware of the "rules" I photos that looked right. No "rules"

A video of RULES

Stamp Clone Tool

I haven't really knew the available options or how to use it. This video may help 

https://youtu.be/OMsgngFUjns

Edit Replay using Lightroom mobile

I frequently enable share photos by using Lightroom classic collection sharing. I them use Lightroom mobile to share them to various social media or others.

One of the features available on Lightroom mobile are to create an "Edit Replay" following is an example 

Problems with my camera

We went for a Maple Creamee after cleaning up after the flooding in Vermont. After we finished our treat I decided to take a photo of the treeline grunge line.

I grabbed my camera but of there's Hawk flying alone the field. Full zoo, dark view finder. What's wrong. Auto ISO, f/8.0, 1/500s. What's wrong? Changed to sequence shooting. No help. What could be wrong?

Then I removed the lens cap. Duh. What a roockie.

Photoing textures

The Camera Club I an a member of suggested for our next meeting we submit photos of textures.

So I wanted to see what Bard, Google's AI, would suggest. There were 3 drafts and I choose 3, which is below.

Here are some suggestions for photoing textures:

• Use a macro lens. A macro lens will allow you to get up close and personal with the texture, capturing all the details.
  Opens in a new windowwww.the-digital-picture.com

  Macro lens
• Use a polarizing filter. A polarizing filter can help to reduce reflections and glare, making the texture stand out more.
  Opens in a new windowwww.bhphotovideo.com

  Polarizing filter
• Use natural light. Natural light is the best light for capturing texture. If you're shooting indoors, try to find a window with soft, diffused light.
• Experiment with different angles. Try shooting the texture from different angles to see how it changes. You may find that one angle reveals the texture more than another.
• Use a tripod. A tripod will help to keep your camera steady, which is important for capturing sharp images of textures.
• Edit your photos. Once you've taken your photos, you can edit them to further enhance the texture. You can use photo editing software to adjust the contrast, saturation, and brightness of your photos.

Here are some additional tips:

• Choose a texture that is interesting and visually appealing. The texture should be something that will capture the viewer's attention.
• Simplify the background. A cluttered background will distract from the texture. Try to simplify the background so that the texture is the main focus of the photo.
• Crop your photos tightly. Cropping your photos tightly will help to emphasize the texture.

I hope these suggestions help you to take great photos of textures

DoF, Depth Of Field?

 We have learned that to get a shallow DoF use a large Aperture. So why does your cellphone camera with a large Aperture, say f/1.7, have a wide DoF. Basically why is everything in acceptable focus?

Why?

Use the comment area to post your answer(s)

BBAF and Auto ISO, My Secret Sauce

 With anything in photography Your Mileage May Vary, YMMV. You may differ with me and that's OK. It's all about getting the shot.

I must say in 2015 I learned BBAF in a camera club in AZ. Used it and then discarded it. A few years later I rediscovered it and it has need my primary focus mode.

BBAF - https://youtu.be/5fjwZ7HYtbs

Once I decided that noise was something I could tolerate I primarily use BBAF + Auto ISO .

Manual with Auto ISO - https://youtu.be/UPZPv3Z5t_o

My blog post Auto ISO 

My Blog post Why I Stopped Worring About Hi ISO 

What Settings? photographing northern lights

A while ago I wrote "Don't Ask Me". Since it may be clear night and the northern lights may give me a show I asked Bard, "What are the recommend settings for photographing northern lights with OM-D E-M5 iii"

And AI said "The following are the recommended settings for photographing the Northern Lights with the OM-D E-M5 iii:

• Aperture: f/2.8 or wider. This will allow as much light as possible into the camera, which is essential for capturing the faint light of the aurora.
• ISO: 3200-8000. This will determine how sensitive the camera is to light. A higher ISO will allow you to use a shorter shutter speed, which will help to reduce blur.
• Shutter speed: 1-12 seconds. This will determine how long the camera's shutter is open, allowing light to hit the sensor. A longer shutter speed will allow more light in, but it will also increase the risk of blur.
• White balance: 3500K. This will ensure that the colors of the aurora are accurate.
• Focus: Manual. Autofocus will not be able to focus on the aurora, so you will need to focus manually on a distant light source.

Here are some additional tips for photographing the Northern Lights with the OM-D E-M5 iii:

• Use a tripod to keep the camera steady.
• Use a remote shutter release to avoid camera shake.
• Shoot in RAW format to give you more flexibility in post-processing.
• Experiment with different settings to see what works best for you.

With a little planning and practice, you can capture stunning images of the Northern Lights with your OM-D E-M5 iii.

Here are some additional resources that you may find helpful:

• How to Photograph the Northern Lights with Your Olympus Camera: https://focus9photography.com/free-tutorials/2020/1/22/how-to-shoot-the-northern-lights-aurora-borealis-with-your-olympus-camera
• Night Lights: Photographing the Magic of the Aurora Borealis: https://learnandsupport.getolympus.com/learn-center/photography-tips/astrophotography/night-lights-photographing-the-magic-of-the-aurora
• The Northern Lights: 10 Photography Tips for Beginners: https://www.hurtigruten.com/inspiration/experiences/the-northern-lights/10-photography-tips-for-beginners/"

Just say'n

IMHO all recommendations are just a starting point. Use the settings, take a test shot, evaluate your results and adjust ONE setting. 

Focus is likely the most problematic and most important settings. Use manual focus. Most Mirrorless have focus peaking adjustment. Learn it and Use it. With a DSLR use live view and, with both, zoom to a distant object and focus. 

I't my Opinion YMMV

 What is the purpose of a Photographic Challenge?

Is it ok to recycle photos you have taken in the past to fit the current Challenge?

If so what did you learn? If the setting that were used on you previous camera do they fit your current gear? Ok you met the "challenge" but did you actually learn anything new or find a new location.

In my OPINION it was a useless endeavor. You only searched your catalog of photos to fit the goal. Even if it's the same old subject, challenge, find something new. Get out of your comfort zone. Take a photo. Use your camera not your computer.

That my Opinion. 

It's Not That Simple. There are no absolutes (UP Date)

 I'll use [] to show changes and additions.

Pressing the shutter release is the simple part. Everything takes time and experience.

Most everything you read, videos you watch, meetings or workshops you attend suggest "do this .." to become a better photographer. But there are no, NO, absolutes only guides. To improve your photography you need to actually take photos and analyze your results.

I would say the only absolute is composition, focus and as MattK says "The Why ..." Why did you take the photo.

Yes there are "rules" for composition but which for this situation?

Aperture Priority for landscape but ...

 [If there is anything that is moving or may move because of the wind or people you need to consider the shutter speed.  Your camera is will create a "proper" exposure based on your other settings such as White Balance, WB, Metering and Picture Profile like Vivid, Portrait, etc. To accomplish, with a fixed ISO, will adjust the Shutter Speed, SS. to get the "proper" exposure.  The general guideline for proper hand held SS is 1/(focal length) so if your are at 50mm that is 1/100 s.]

Shutter Priority for motion but ...

[Similarly your camera will give you a "proper" exposure.. To do this your camera will adjust the aperture to accomplish it.  However your photo may be soft at the extremes of your scene Consider you are taking a landscape on a windy day and you want the foreground, middle ground and background free of blur. Say your SS is 1/600s  The only thing your camera can adjust is the aperture. Your camera analyzes the scene and  determine the proper Aperture is f/4.0. Is everything acceptably sharp? maybe, maybe not.]

Low ISO for a cleaner photo but ...

[Back in the day, actually not that long ago, many preached "always use ISO 100". Modern camera sensors and software have come a long way. Yes ISO 100 is cleaner, less noise, than 12800 however IMHO get the shot, well exposed, acceptably sharp and focus. Let your camera sensor or/and processing software take care of the noise.]

Never use AUTO but ...

[Consider using AUTO to guide to your settings, when you hand your camera to someone else to take a photo. Frequently the photo is acceptable.]

Use JPEG but ...

[JPEG when you don't do much postprocessing or immediate posting to others. Remember that JPG is like a  wrapped deli ham sandwich.  You can unwrap and add some condiments but it is still a ham sandwich. ]

Use RAW but ...

[On the other had a RAW file might look like a ham sandwich on your cameras LCD. And you can use postprocessing to make is a toasted turkey and ham sandwich. Your choice.]

Fast shutter speed to eliminate or reduce motion blur but ...

[Is that what you want? It is an artistic choice. Do your want to show motion by blur? Do you want to stop an arrow or bird in flight. These are artistic choices.]

Aperture controls DoF but ...

[Yes a large aperture, small f number, yields a shallow DoF. However there are other variables in play. Such as sensor size, distance between camea, subject and background and add focal length. Often those variables are more important than aperture. See dof simulator]

What is DoF?

["is the distance between the nearest and farthest objects in a photo that appear acceptably sharp"]

Use evaluative metering but ...

[All consumer cameras are set to evaluate the light reaching the sensor so  that the brightest and darkest to 18% gray or grey. What is 18%grey? Also remember that other metermoes, center weighted and spot us that are measure the 18% grey of that area.]  

Use Scene mode but ...

[IMHO use them as a guide. Once you have traveled the photography path I seldom use them. Usually for talking points.]

Full Frame or Crop is best but ...

[Yes Full Frame, FF, has a lot of advantages over than other sensor sizes. When you view an image is it half full or half empty? You need to evaluate your needs and make your own decision.]

Lighting, back, front, side, shadow, harsh, soft, golden, blue, ... hour, ...

[Again you need to learn what they are and when to use them. Sometime you have to deal with the light you have. Basically use you feet and walk around the scene to see what light works best for your photo.]

[A new camera will improve my photography

No it will not! If you take bad photos with your current gear new equipment will still take bad photos. New gear may be easier to use for you, maye assist or improve the Auto focus, and provide other features you desire BUT it will not make bad photos better.  Learn you current camera to the max.]

There is no one thing that makes you a better photographer. It is the combination of all the items above and more that make you a better photographer. But, in my opinion, you need to know your camera. What buttor, what menu item, what ... If you don't know your camera you will be unable to utilize it to your fullest. This applies to the simplest Point and Shoot, Cell Phone camera to the latest wize bang Mirrorless.

Let me paraphrase President Kennedy's quote "We choose to go to the Moon in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard."

This way, We choose to become a better photographers not because they are easy, but because they are hard.

[You only get better by taking photos and analyzing your results.]

BBAF and Auto, my secret sauce

With anything in photography Your Mileage May Vary. You may differ with me and that's OK. It's all about getting the shot.

I must say in 2015 I learned BBAF in a camera club in AZ. Used it and then discarded it. A few years later I rediscovered it and it has need my primary focus mode.

BBAF https://youtu.be/5fjwZ7HYtbs

Once I decided that noise was something I could tolerate I primarily use Auto ISO .

Manual with Auto ISO https://youtu.be/UPZPv3Z5t_o

As all YMMV.

Lightroom Videos I Suggest

    

A few links for Lightroom Classic

Masking

 Adaptive Presets

Is there a place for Bridge and Lightroom? 

 Mask anything

Organizing Your Photos 

Every expert, content creator, ... has their way to do it. It may not work for you. How do you organize is the best way for YOU.  BUT once you begin to use Lightroom Classic only use Lightroom Library to rename, move or otherwise modify your photo locations, names etc.

In YouTube I entered this search "how to organise photos in lightroom classic " and there are lots of the best way. You need to find the way that works for you. Following are some that I have viewed and I'm still searching for the BEST . 

I want to avoid having a mess 

The Kelby Way

The Tim Grey Way 

5 Ways 

The PHlearn series 

Finding a shooting position for the Milky Way core

Use Antares as described by this video.

https://youtu.be/8m6jAF0EWT4

Basically find your composition using Antares. Place your camera, settings, tripod pointing to Antares and in about an hour you can Photograph the Milky Way core.

How to Price Your Photographic Work

You've taken a photo and posted it on the web. Now someone wants to purchase a print. What should you charge?

I'm not a commercial photographer, it's a hobby and I'll say selling photos is a side hustle. Not a job.

That's the BIG depends, Photographic paper, matteing, frame, canvas, metal, glass? There are a number of web pages to help you. I've read many and they you on and on about the business.

Basically many write about your gear cost, you're time in the field, time spent in post processing, and it goes on.

For me it's simply your labor rate + "Parts"(production+shipping).

Labor rate varies widely over the world. So what is your labor rate?  Experience, Skill and Complexity should be considered when setting your personal labor rate. $30-$50/hr is reasonable.

So let's say, on average, you create a photo, 

Research and planning - 1hr

In the field to "get the shot," - 2hr

Postprocessing - 1hr

The size of the print does not figure it the time to crest the image. 

So we have 4 hours, on average, to create an image for sale.

So 4x$30 = $120 to 4x$50 = $200 plus (production+shipping)

So for a recent 11x14 aluminum that costs $45  that brings me to a selling price is $165-$245.

I view my gear as a sunk cost, or at best deprecated asset. Remember it's a hobby.

So where does that leave me?  Ok, it's a hobby I think $100+costs is fare. However when I promote my side hustle I figure $120-$200 + costs is reasonable. Your side hustle just became a business.

Really your creation is only worth what the purchaser is willing to pay. So that brings us to, determine your audience. 

I'll set as price of $100+ costs when someone asks for a print. The customer and I can agree on a price.

Facebook Cloning, By Bard

How to eliminate or reduce cloning of my Facebook account

Draft 1 

There is no foolproof way to eliminate the risk of your Facebook account being cloned, but there are a number of steps you can take to reduce the likelihood that it will happen. Here are some tips:

* **Make your profile less public.** The more information you make public about yourself on Facebook, the easier it is for scammers to create a fake account that looks like yours. Go to your **Profile** page and click on **Settings**. Under **Privacy**, review the settings for each section and make sure that only the information you want to be public is visible. For example, you may want to make your friends list private so that only your friends can see it.

* **Use a strong password and two-factor authentication.** A strong password will make it more difficult for scammers to hack your account. You should also enable two-factor authentication, which adds an extra layer of security by requiring you to enter a code from your phone in addition to your password when you log in.

* **Be careful about what links you click on.** Scammers often send links to fake websites that look like real Facebook pages. If you click on one of these links, you could be infected with malware or have your personal information stolen. Only click on links that you know are safe.

* **Be suspicious of friend requests from people you don't know.** If you receive a friend request from someone you don't know, don't accept it right away. Instead, check their profile to make sure it looks legitimate. If you're still not sure, you can always ask the person to contact you outside of Facebook to verify their identity.

* **Report any cloned accounts you see.** If you see a cloned account that's using your name or likeness, you can report it to Facebook. To do this, go to the cloned profile and click on the **More** button (three dots) in the top right corner. Select **Report Profile** and then follow the instructions.

By following these tips, you can help to protect your Facebook account from being cloned.

Draft 2

Here are some tips on how to eliminate or reduce the risk of your Facebook account being cloned:

* **Use strong passwords and two-factor authentication.** This will make it more difficult for scammers to gain access to your account.

* **Be careful about what information you share publicly.** Scammers can use your public information to create a fake account that looks like yours.

* **Don't click on links from people you don't know.** These links could lead to malicious websites that can infect your computer with malware.

* **Be suspicious of any requests for personal information.** Scammers will often ask for personal information, such as your credit card number or Social Security number, in order to steal your identity.

* **Report any cloned accounts to Facebook.** Facebook will take action to remove these accounts.

Here are some additional tips:

* **Keep your software up to date.** Software updates often include security patches that can help protect you from scammers.

* **Use a security software program.** A security software program can scan your computer for malware and other threats.

* **Be careful about what you download.** Only download files from trusted sources.

* **Back up your data regularly.** This way, if your computer is infected with malware or your account is hacked, you won't lose all of your data.

By following these tips, you can help reduce the risk of your Facebook account being cloned.

Draft 3

There is no foolproof way to eliminate the risk of your Facebook account being cloned, but there are a number of steps you can take to reduce the likelihood that it will happen.

* **Use strong passwords and two-factor authentication.** This will make it more difficult for scammers to gain access to your account in the first place.

* **Be careful about what information you share publicly.** Scammers can use publicly available information to create fake profiles that look like yours. Make sure to only share information that you're comfortable with being public.

* **Be suspicious of friend requests from people you don't know.** If you receive a friend request from someone you don't know, don't accept it right away. Hover over their name to see if their profile is actually a clone.

* **Report any cloned accounts you see.** If you see a cloned account, report it to Facebook immediately. You can do this by going to the cloned profile and clicking the "Report Profile" button.

By following these tips, you can help to protect your Facebook account from being cloned.

Here are some additional tips to help you protect your Facebook account:

* **Keep your software up to date.** Facebook is constantly releasing security updates, so it's important to make sure that you have the latest version of the Facebook app installed on your device.

* **Be careful about clicking on links in messages.** Scammers often send messages that contain links to malicious websites. If you're not sure whether a link is safe, don't click on it.

* **Be aware of phishing scams.** Phishing scams are emails or messages that look like they're from Facebook, but they're actually from scammers. These messages will often ask you to click on a link or provide personal information. Don't respond to these messages.

* **Use a security app.** There are a number of security apps available that can help to protect your Facebook account from being hacked or cloned. These apps can scan your device for malware, block phishing scams, and more.

By following these tips, you can help to protect your Facebook account from being hacked or cloned.

Nails on a Chalkboard

I've done it too. I'll likely make it again. But no matter what else, if your photo is not straight, it's nails on a chalkboard.

This video may help.

Google Bard may not ...

I posted this to Bard, Google AI, "

Is larrysphotography41. Blog reliable

"

I'm not a professional photographer not do I have over 20 years of experience.

Bard's answer,

"Larrysphotography41.blog is a blog that focuses on photography. It was created in 2018 and has since published over 100 articles. The blog covers a wide range of topics, including photography techniques, gear reviews, and photo essays.

The blog is written by Larry, a professional photographer with over 20 years of experience. Larry is a knowledgeable and experienced photographer, and his articles are well-written and informative. He also provides helpful tips and advice for amateur photographers.

The blog is updated regularly with new content, and Larry is always responsive to comments and questions from readers. Overall, Larrysphotography41.blog is a reliable and informative resource for photographers of all levels.

Here are some of the pros and cons of Larrysphotography41.blog:

**Pros:**

* Well-written and informative articles

* Helpful tips and advice for amateur photographers

* Updated regularly with new content

* Responsive to comments and questions from readers

**Cons:**

* Some articles may be too technical for beginners

* Not as comprehensive as some other photography blogs

Overall, Larrysphotography41.blog is a reliable and informative resource for photographers of all levels. If you're looking for a blog that covers a wide range of photography topics, then Larrysphotography41.blog is a great option."

Rolling Shutter

I posted this photo, 

They was a question about the effect of Rolling Shutter showing the bat bending. There may be a component of Rolling Shutter so I investigated beam flex and rolling shutter. Basically wood bats bend and rolling shutter in an electronic shutter does exist.

So since I signed up as a Google Bard AI I figure Bard would know.

Q: Does OM-D E-M5 iii exhibit rolling shutter when a baseball meeting the bat swing

A: Yes, the OM-D E-M5 iii exhibits rolling shutter when a baseball meets the bat swing. This is because the sensor in the camera scans from top to bottom to capture an image. When a fast-moving object is in the frame, it can appear distorted or elongated due to the time it takes for the sensor to scan the entire image.

There are a few things you can do to minimize the effects of rolling shutter when shooting fast-moving objects:

* Use a faster shutter speed. This will reduce the amount of time the sensor has to scan the image, which will help to reduce distortion.

* Use a wider aperture. This will let in more light, which will also help to reduce distortion.

* Use a telephoto lens. This will help to compress the image, which will make the distortion less noticeable.

* Shoot in burst mode. This will allow you to capture multiple frames of the action, which you can then review and select the best one.

Even with these tips, it is not always possible to completely eliminate rolling shutter. However, by following these tips, you can minimize the effects and capture sharp, clear images of fast-moving objects.

Here are some additional details about rolling shutter:

* Rolling shutter is a type of image distortion that occurs when the sensor in a camera scans from top to bottom to capture an image.

* This type of distortion can cause fast-moving objects to appear elongated or distorted.

* There are a few things you can do to minimize the effects of rolling shutter, such as using a faster shutter speed, a wider aperture, or a telephoto lens.

* However, it is not always possible to completely eliminate rolling shutter.

Q: How much does a swinging bat flex when it strikes a pitched ball

A: The amount of flex in a swinging bat when it strikes a pitched ball depends on a number of factors, including the weight of the bat, the speed of the swing, the type of wood used to make the bat, and the hardness of the ball.

A heavier bat will flex more than a lighter bat, because it has more mass. A faster swing will also cause the bat to flex more, because it has more kinetic energy. The type of wood used to make the bat also affects how much it will flex. Hardwoods, such as maple, will flex less than softer woods, such as ash. The hardness of the ball also affects how much the bat will flex. A harder ball will cause the bat to flex more than a softer ball.

In general, a swinging bat will flex about 1-2 inches when it strikes a pitched ball. However, this is just an average, and the actual amount of flex can vary significantly.

Here are some additional details about bat flex:

* Bat flex is the amount of bending that occurs in a bat when it is hit.

* The amount of flex depends on a number of factors, including the weight of the bat, the speed of the swing, the type of wood used to make the bat, and the hardness of the ball.

* A heavier bat will flex more than a lighter bat.

* A faster swing will cause the bat to flex more.

* The type of wood used to make the bat also affects how much it will flex. Hardwoods, such as maple, will flex less than softer woods, such as ash.

* The hardness of the ball also affects how much the bat will flex. A harder ball will cause the bat to flex more than a softer ball.

* In general, a swinging bat will flex about 1-2 inches when it strikes a pitched ball.

Bat flex can have a number of effects on the performance of a baseball bat. For example, too much flex can cause the bat to lose energy, which can lead to a decrease in bat speed. Conversely, too little flex can cause the bat to break. Therefore, it is important to find a bat that has the right amount of flex for your swing.

Just sayn

What Camera Should I buy?

Yes you can immerse in technical details what is your choice.

But your BEST camera is the one YOU will actually USE. For many a cellphone camera is their best choice. What do you use your camera for? The best is what you want to photograph. When you don't know what you like to photograph, use what you have. Like the camera in your pocket, cellphone camera.

Learn your camera strengths and limitations then choose the camera that reduces those limitations. A friend purchased a Nikon D7200 to take good photos. He/She didn't take the time to learn photography as well as the camera. They now have a smaller camera and use Auto.

Pressing the Shutter Button is easy.

Learn composition, basic tonality editing, brightness, highlights, shadows etc. Use how to crop, level and straighten.

Then only share your best.

What settings did you ...

 I posted this photo on my Olympus OM-D E-M5 iii 70-300mm lens.

Perhaps others would like to know the camera settings and features I used.

And there was a question about if I used electronic shutter. So on Facebook I answered

yes but only because of the noise of the camera. Manual mode with Auto ISO, 1/1250s, f/8.0,, ISO 400. Likely 150mm focal length. Spot metering, focus, camera focus Limiter about 100-499 feet. I didn't want to focus on the netting.

Using pro-capture hi, single focus 30frames per sec, 14 pre frames with count limit is 25.