What Interests you?

When one of my photographers friend has a problem or a question that prompts me to research it, test it with my camera, take a series of photos to demonstrate it.

Please use the comments to let any photography topic you would like me to cover.

Adobe cloud & ecosystem

Some are suspicious of anything with the word "cloud". Your email is in a cloud. Using the WWW, World Wide Web, is in a cloud. Facebook, Instagram and all social media is in a Cloud.

The Adobe Cloud is no different. Using Lightroom Classic sync is no different, as is Lightroom, mobile, Web. 

When you use Lightroom Classic sync your images are in the Adobe cloud. You can access, share and arrange them in Folders and Albums.

This video by Terry White should get you started https://youtu.be/kcO4Emc70KY?si=LXB4a-3OatMpega1

Histogram? Loss of data?

Histogram?

The histogram represents a tonal range of 256, 0-255, values. Spikes on the left or right indicates a loss of detail.

Our cameras use 10 to 14 bits per color. Each color has 1024 to 16384 values of tonal range.

My question is how to change 1024 or 16384 to 256?

To get 1024 to "fit" 256 you group 4 shades to 1. 16384 to "fit" 256 you group 64 shades to 1.

It's like breaking a mile to quarter mile segments, yard, feet, inches, in...

Just like breaking down a mile into smaller units (quarters, yards, feet, inches), a histogram attempts to represent the vast range of color information (10-14 bits per color) into a much smaller number of levels (usually 256).

Mile: Represents the full range of color information captured by the sensor.

Quarter Mile: A larger division, still representing a significant portion of the overall distance.

Yard: A smaller division, providing more detail within the quarter mile.

Feet: Even smaller divisions, offering more precise measurements.

Inches: The smallest unit in this analogy, representing the limited number of levels (256) in the histogram.

This analogy highlights how the histogram, with its limited number of levels, simplifies the vast amount of color information captured by the sensor, potentially leading to a loss of fine detail.

Some time in 2019 I purchased my Nikon D5500. Later I bought 2 ebooks by Steve Perry, "Secrets To Exposure And Metering For Nikon"  which I quoted below 

"The Histogram Lies To RAW Shooters If you’re a RAW shooter - and you should be - there’s an important asterisk associated with all of the info we just covered. When you look at the image and histogram on the back of the camera you are NOT seeing the real RAW image – only an embedded JPEG created from the RAW file. (GASP!) Sometimes even if a histogram indicates blown highlights or solid blacks, there may still be some detail you can recover later with your RAW processing software (especially true for clipping on the left side). If you’re way under or over (highlights are especially problematic), feel free to assume the photo is going to see the inside of the virtual trash bin. Also, since the camera is generating the histogram from the embedded JPEG file, you have to consider what picture profile you’re using. A profile with more contrast will tend to show clipping before a profile with a flatter rendition, even with the same exposure. And of course RAW has more latitude than any embedded JPEG." 

AI vs EI and how they can work together

Ok Larry just what ie EI?

We know AI is Artificial Intelligence where powerful computer's and algorithms come up with responses.

Where as Experience Intelligent use your experience, knowledge and studies provide Intelligence.

At many times when I asked chatGPT or Gemini a question they provided an incomplete answer.

That's where Experience Intelligent can help AI. 

You need your EI to know that AI is not complete. Often times rephrasing your questions leads you to a better answer. Sometimes a response leads to a normal search that provides the answers or something you hadn't considered.

What's the point? Use both but don't forget your EI.

Visual Hook

Next week's photo challenge is to take a new photo(s), up to 3, that creates a visual hook. "The best visual hook is one that resonates with the viewer on a personal level."

I asked this challenge to hopefully get us thinking. We are taught about cameras, lenses, settings, "rules"/guides of composition.

But what make you stop when scrolling the social media photos?

What is it? Camera, lens, settings, lines, 3rd's, framing, ... What make you stop.

A visual hook in Photography is an element that grabs the viewer’s attention immediately and holds their interest. It often creates a focal point, adds depth, or elicits an emotional response.

To find inspiration, consider:

Exploring different photographic techniques: Try experimenting with different angles, perspectives, and lighting.

Looking for unusual subjects: Seek out the unexpected and find beauty in the ordinary.

Paying attention to details: Notice the small things that often go unnoticed.

Studying the work of other photographers: Analyze what makes their images compelling.

Yet another post about Composition?

Is it technical or vision that makes a good photo. 

It's both but great composition can be ruined by poor technically executed photo. Like wise a technically executed photo can be boring.

I believe minor technical errors will be ignored by a strong composition.

Searching my blog for "composition" will have many posts.

This link has another view -> I'm against teaching composition rules. Rigorous following on the rules of composition leads to  a lack of creativity.

I believe that they are guides but it is more helpful to actually show examples of good composition.

This discussion from Light Stalking is more informative than "rules" https://www.lightstalking.com/composition-mistakes/

Photo and related topics

1. What can you do with Chachkas?  https://theexit270.blogspot.com/2020/08/photographing-chachkas.html?m=1

2. The following video discussion is getting your Cellphone camera into the Lightroom ecosystem. This video uses iPhone and the technique is the same as Android phones https://youtu.be/QXU98Srh628?si=B9z8uHiXMHBqd5V

3. Next week's photo challenge is to take a new photo(s), up to 3, that creates a visual hook. "The best visual hook is one that resonates with the viewer on a personal level." 

Please put your photos in the folder here -> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16e4L_6TZkiCBVOxHdvKGoqj2mvv_wg-V

4. Using Lightroom Web I created this for a Vermont photography club , https://adobe.ly/42batQ0.

 

Clicking on an individual photo and click the info and comment icons to see the metadata and make comments.

5. A way to get better -> https://www.matiash.com/blog/delete-your-photos

Photograph a sign

After a photography meeting I asked members.

For next week's learning task. Take interesting photographs of a sign, a single sign. Show your best 3 and only 3, for review during next week's meeting.

Use your creative juices to create photos as compelling as possible. Think of color, monochrome, shadows, angles ...

Larry, what's the point of "the sign"? It's not the sign it's about seeing. These links may help.
https://youtu.be/znhXJ-nzogg?si=leyVXhepQZWlbUqA
And
https://theexit270.blogspot.com/?m=1

The Bloody Rules of Composition

 Often I don't explain properly.

Yes I agree that the "rules of composition" are important. 

What I take issue with is the way they are taught. I much prefer to suggest that a photo may look more pleasing if;

You moved ??? right, left, up, down

it would be better if the eyes were ???

Should the ??? have room to move ...

Would it be better if the ??? lead to the ???

Would it be more pleasing if ??? was framed with ???

Would it be better if the ??? was looking/coming toward you 

Does the ??? block the viewer(s) to looking to ???

 

I believe that guiding the photographer to a  better composition is better than quoting a rule. Quoting a rule is easy teaching and understanding is more difficult.

I often prefer to discuss composition issues with the "failures" of  FB and other online photos. This also provides where we can discuss the background, subject size within the frame and distractions in a more non threatening  way.

Several photography videos

Noise that I found very helpful and interesting.

Noise what Noise?? by Simone D'Entremont ->  https://youtu.be/t8XkGix5pzg?si=H4leZ8bk5ImaTr0A

Stop fooling with settings by Simone D'Entremont ->  https://youtu.be/znhXJ-nzogg?si=DfxX94jrSwjGu-4A

Compositioning images in Photoshop by Anthony Morganti -> 

https://youtu.be/p4cE-VaY86s?si=aNO1zWJULfHNHBxI

Using Lightroom Web to share your photos by Brian Matiash -> 

https://youtu.be/CFyFhLJ-Zsg

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

For all that have visited my blog 

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 

I hope you have found something of value that has assisted your photography.

Thank you for visiting.

Lightroom Classic import (Julieanne Kost's Blog)

If you are new to Lightroom Classic or would like a refresher this is worth a view of the videos.

 Julieanne's blog has additional information https://jkost.com/blog/ you may want to review.

OVERVIEW & IMPORTING PHOTOS

• (2024) An Overview of the Lightroom Classic Interface
• (2024) Importing Photos Form A Camera Card into Lightroom Classic
• (2024) Importing Photos from a Hard Drive into Lightroom Classic
• (2024) Tips for Importing Files into Lightroom Classic
• (2024) The Embedded Preview Workflow in Lightroom Classic
• *Quick Tip – Why Does the Photograph’s Preview Change in Lightroom Classic After Import?
• *Quick Tip – How to Stop Lightroom Classic from Switching Folders After Importing Files

Think Rolls of Film.

In Scott Kelby's book "Crush the Composition" he wrote "'Then they start working the scene that’s in front of them and maybe that means taking 20 shots, or maybe that means taking 100, but they keep doing it until they can look at the back of the camera and say, “Nailed it!” Only then do they move on to the next scene or location and start the process of seeing and experimenting all over again."

Of course film is your card or cards in your digital camera.

Back in the day you had 24/36, or less, rolls of film. When you worked the scene did you need to actually take photos, wait for the processing and then review the negatives to select those to print?

Now in fast paced action, or perhaps street photography, burst shooting has it's place. But when you're working the scene do you need to take 20 or more shots? Maybe not. Slow down, use your eye, viewfinder, to visualize the photo.

Yes I often take many photos at an event because I'm looking for those that are unique. The candid shot with the unique expression. The those without the pasted on smile or expression.

Of course YMMV.